Getting Back Into The Groove


Original Post
Edmond Fitzgerald · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2017 · Points: 0

I'm new to Mountain Project, but I've been climbing on and off for about 2 years. I took a pretty long break from climbing recently and I was curious about how I could get back into my best form. In my peak I was comfortable around 5.11b/c, I've gotten a lot stronger over my break, but I've lost a lot of my technique. Any advice?

jaredj · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 165

I've come and gone twice with similar intervals. My experience was that my technique felt "sticky"; after a few sessions, my movement felt more intuitive.

Finger strength returned relatively quickly (on the order of months I was back to where I was before).

My belief (emphasis on belief, not science) is that coming back from a long break puts you at greater risk of finger injury (relative to a total noobie) since you "know" how to climb harder, and have a mental anchor at your previous ability. It's easy to push hard and quickly develop strength in the muscles that can overpower your tendons.

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 275
Edmond Fitzgerald wrote:I'm new to Mountain Project, but I've been climbing on and off for about 2 years. I took a pretty long break from climbing recently and I was curious about how I could get back into my best form. In my peak I was comfortable around 5.11b/c, I've gotten a lot stronger over my break, but I've lost a lot of my technique. Any advice?
Climb more often? Climb with better climbers than yourself (that rules me out).
gblauer Blauer · · Wayne, PA · Joined Jul 2008 · Points: 800

Just go climbing. It all comes back and more, if you want it to.

Edmond Fitzgerald · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2017 · Points: 0

Thanks, I really appreciate it

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Post a Reply

Log In to Reply