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Favorite shoe for indoor sport climbing?

Original Post
Austin Russell · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 10

I use skwamas for bouldering and aggressive sport routes, but would like some shoes good for edging and more technical vertical climbs. Any input is appreciated , thanks!

that guy named seb · · Britland · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 205

"indoor sport climbing" stop looking for a excuse to spend more money just about any decent shoe will get you up many many many grades harder than what you are climbing indoors.

Sean Haynes · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2015 · Points: 101

I climb in my blown out shoes. Like, the ones that needed a resole months ago because my toes started sticking out

Lee Green · · Edmonton, Alberta · Joined Nov 2011 · Points: 50

I use Five Ten Rogue VCS. They're comfortable, inexpensive, work decently well, but enough less well than my Anasazis (which I use outside) that they make me pay attention to my footwork properly in the gym. Then when I climb outside I'm better off. I generally like the idea of a bit of a handicap in the gym, it seems to pay off on rock.

Khoi · · Vancouver, BC · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 45

I use whatever fits my feet and is comfortable. Yes, that often means a flat shoe. Yes, even if the route and steeply overhanging.

If I am projecting something that is steeply overhanging then I'll probably put on a pair of aggressive shoes.

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 190

I actually think 5.10 Moccasyms are the best indoor shoes. Easiest on/off possible, super comfortable, and C4 tends to stick really well to gym holds. They're soft enough that you can toe in fairly well on overhangs and are good training for footwork, plus their main disadvantage (microedging) isn't really relevant indoors. If you need a little more support, get the VCS or Pink, but for ~100 bucks you can't do much better than Moccs.

Nick Drake · · Newcastle, WA · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 483

Skwamas have more than enough support for any gym foothold on vertical and slab. I don't know why you would want anything stiffer, gym holds are huge. That being said I've been happy with skwamas on thin vertical rock when I needed more sensitivity too.

Matt Himmelstein · · Orange, California · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 125

I use the same shoes I use outdoor. I like Tenayas, but have been know to climb in lots of shoes over time.

jaredj · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 165

The "Brothers Crushing Andersen" contend that you should wear the same shoes for climbing hard inside as you intend to wear outside. Maybe not literally the same pair or whatever, but from a skill / movement perspective you don't gain much doing X inside and Y outside.

If you have a very specific purpose in mind (e.g. wanna climb in soft shoes to help strengthen your feet or whatever) that's a different story.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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