South Dakota climbing recommendations


Original Post
Nick Thomas · · Fargo, ND · Joined Nov 2016 · Points: 30

A couple friends and I are hoping to head down to SD to climb for 3-4 days in a couple months. Most likely the Rushmore/Needles/Custer area, possibly heading up for a day in Spearfish Canyon if it's worth it. I've been looking up tons of routes on the site and the climbing looks aesthetic and amazing! I just wanted to hear from some people what routes and areas they recommend.
- Up to 5.11 if well protected, 5.9 to 10- if run out.
- We don't have trad gear. Bummer as it looks like a lot of the coolest routes are trad or sport/trad but that's what we've got.
- It'd be awesome to get up on some of the cool spires in the Needles.
Also we will have to look into camping in the area. I haven't really checked into that yet but advice is welcome. Thanks!
Edit: Just saw the post on Black Hills Camping in spring.

Jake wander · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 5

if your post about camping in the spring doesnt mention the free climbers camp right behind rushmore, look into that. its super convenient, although it seems be getting more crowded.

SThal · · Logan, UT · Joined Jun 2006 · Points: 65

Spearfish does have good sport climbing in a beautiful canyon with fewer runouts. South Seas and Chopping Block, both in Rushmore, have lots of sport routes, but be aware that bolted routes there can be runout, depending on what you're used to, and often require gear to supplement the bolts. Also be aware of the Sturgis Rally dates...

jdereks · · Minnesota · Joined Dec 2015 · Points: 30

This thread will be helpful.

https://www.mountainproject.com/v/rushmore-black-hills-and-spearfish-beta-wanted/110789062

G Egbert · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2017 · Points: 0

Dispersed camping is free in the Black Hills.

https://www.fs.usda.gov/activity/blackhills/recreation/camping-cabins/?recid=25823&actid=34

If you want reservations for camping, Grizzly Creek campground is nice and not too far away from climbing by Mt Rushmore.

http://www.reserveamerica.com/camping/grizzly-creek-primitive/r/campgroundDetails.do?contractCode=NRSO&parkId=73854

Plenty of great climbs in your range. Definitely get the Burr/Busse guidebook.

Edit: Be careful around the 4th of July. There are some area closures around the holiday and the place is a zoo.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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