In Adirondacks, BD X4s vs. C4s?


Original Post
Edek Falkowski · · Buffalo, NY · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 110

Hi,

I'm building up a trad rack for an extended stay in the Adirondacks this summer, and I am in between buying BD X4s and C4s in the smaller sizes. I have a few questions though.

1) Are .1s and .2s even necessary?

2) I heard X4s are more versatile to place, but I've also heard that they get stuck easier. What are your opinions on this?

3) What sizes are best to have for C4 vs. X4 in the range of BD .3-.75?

4) I was planning on getting Metolius size 1-8 in addition to a full set of BD cams to give me more range in placements. Is there any reason this is a bad idea?

Thank you!

Connor F-M · · Lafayette, CO · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 45

I own C4s and have used X4s, I've found the larger X4s tend to get stuck more easily. Since they have a large, heavy head and a flexible stem, they can tend to be hard to adjust after they are placed, especially if you're in a bind. That said, they do set well and the smaller X4s don't have that problem as much. As for having small gear in the Daks, it depends a little bit on the difficulty of the climb and whether or not it is a face climb or a crack. The face climbs will generally take smaller gear and harder climbs probably will too. That's my 2 cents at least with some climbing in the Daks.

Enoch M. · · Bronx, NY · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 5

Support the local shop, the mountaineer, and ask them. They are super experienced and can give great information.

Dylan Pike · · SLC, UT · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 35

All of my small 4 lobe cams are x4s and I have never felt like I was going to get one stuck. I like mine. Ive also whipped on all of my x4s and have never had a failure, beyond kinking stems. That being said, the c4s are probably more durable over the long term.

that guy named seb · · Britland · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 205

Totems..

grog m aka Greg McKee · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 70

F$%k yes 0.1s and 0.2s are necessary. X4s dont get stuck anymore than any other cam.

Like seb said, consider totems. They are the only cam that no one has ever had a negative response to.

Luc-514 · · Montreal, Quebec · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 8,903

#.3 in the C4 has a double axle while it's a single on the X4.
I've got a set of C4s, X4s and C3s.
I mix and match depending on the route I do.

Systematic · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 351
Edek Falkowski wrote:Hi, I'm building up a trad rack for an extended stay in the Adirondacks this summer, and I am in between buying BD X4s and C4s in the smaller sizes. I have a few questions though. 1) Are .1s and .2s even necessary? 2) I heard X4s are more versatile to place, but I've also heard that they get stuck easier. What are your opinions on this? 3) What sizes are best to have for C4 vs. X4 in the range of BD .3-.75? 4) I was planning on getting Metolius size 1-8 in addition to a full set of BD cams to give me more range in placements. Is there any reason this is a bad idea? Thank you!
If your heart is set on BD get X4s to 0.5, C4s 0.5-4. 0.5 and 0.4 are good sizes for doubles so consider having one of each there.

I really like Master cams in the smaller sizes. They are more robust than X4s (and thus less prone to kinking), are narrower, and you can get them for much less.
Nick Drake · · Newcastle, WA · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 478

Owning both, I would go totem basic in blue to red (.2 x4 to .5 range) first X4 or C4s. Lighter and better trigger action than the X4.

Bill Kirby · · Baltimore Maryland · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 480
Luc-514 wrote:#.3 in the C4 has a double axle while it's a single on the X4. I've got a set of C4s, X4s and C3s. I mix and match depending on the route I do.

I'm with you Luc, if I'm whipping I would rather place a .3-.5 C4 than a X4 or Totem basic. C4s are more stout. That said I rack regular Totems black to red now.
Eric and Lucie · · Boulder, CO · Joined Oct 2004 · Points: 140
Nick Drake wrote:Owning both, I would go totem basic in blue to red (.2 x4 to .5 range) first X4 or C4s. Lighter and better trigger action than the X4.
+1. I own all sorts of cams for all brands, but that's my standard rack.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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