Austin TX partners/ good rope solo crags


Original Post
Josh Edwards · · Bend, Oregon · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 30

I'm going to be in Austin for the month of March and will be looking to climb as much as possible. I have a pretty open schedule, so if you want to get out let me know. I'm very experienced and willing to take newer climbers out in exchange for some belays. Always stoked to get new climbers out so even if you're new don't be shy! Also if anyone has some suggestions on good crags to get some rope solo laps in, either at Barton Greenbelt or Reimers ranch, that would be much appreciated! Looking for crags with a high concentration of .11/.12. Also willing to go to the gym, but I really prefer climbing outside.

Cheers,
Josh
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Gunnar Neby · · Austin · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 0

Hi Josh. I've been bouldering indoors for a while now, but I'm itching to get out and climb outdoors. I have very little experience climbing outdoors, and I would really like to gain more experience in belaying and all the safety procedures involved in the different types of outdoor climbing. I have pretty much all the basic gear except a rope, so I have a harness, shoes, 6 draws, lock CB, atc device

WILLIAM FENWICK · · REISTERSTOWN, MD · Joined Nov 2015 · Points: 5

Subscribing to this thread because I'll be in a very similar situation. Josh, I'll be outside Houston from 3/12-4/09 ish and would be interested in meeting up if I get a free weekend. Reimer's seems like a good option. I'll be working mostly 7 days/week, but tentatively am free 3/18-3/19.

Also watching for info on rope solo areas.

Robert Michael · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 101

Josh, I live in the area and do quite a lot of rope soloing. Here are some areas that have worked well for me because of an abundance of trees and/or large boulders that let me build good ground anchors for several different routes:

Greenbelt: Seismic Wall, Rubber Wall, Guide's Wall

Reimers: Dead Cats Wall, Serpent's Wall, Prototype Wall

Reimers North Shore: Middle Earth Wall, Gypsy Wall

There are scattered other routes that are good, but the above walls have lots of opportunities.

These are well below your stated level, but here are some bang-for-the-buck options I like:

At Seismic, you can climb Black Slabbath (5.7) and then solo-TR 5.8 and 5.9 variations off the anchors. Also at Seismic, you can lead 5.8 Bird Dog and then solo-TR 5.9 and 5.10 variations.

At Guide's Wall, I like to lead one of the bolted lines and then use the bolts up above the top to set up solo-TR lines on the bulging wall to the left. There are variations from 5.7 to 5.10d.

Feel free to PM me if you want more details or if you'd like to meet up so I can point some of these options out.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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