Routes on cliffs near Jemez Springs?


Original Post
a p · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2016 · Points: 15

Anyone know if the bands of tuff to the east of Jemez Springs have seen development? If not, is there a reason? Haven't walked up there myself so there's a good chance they could be choss, but they're on forest service land, look pretty intact, and seems like the approach would be strenuous but not unreasonable.

Just wondering.

Bill Czajkowski · · Albuquerque, NM · Joined Oct 2008 · Points: 30

I've always assumed that "rock" is pretty soft. I assume you're talking about the kind of orange looking stuff?

a p · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2016 · Points: 15

http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/7382/377/1600/Jemez%20Canyon%203.0.jpg

This is the type of rock I'm talking about. It looks a bit like the rock at Smith- in some places it forms nice clean faces

Bill Czajkowski · · Albuquerque, NM · Joined Oct 2008 · Points: 30

Yeah, I've looked at it many times. Always assumed it was too soft. There's rock that looks like it near Los Alamos (easy to access) and is unsuitable to hold bolts or gear.

s.price · · PS,CO · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 1,348

Wasn't there a thread about this a couple of months ago? Someone who knows more will certainly chime in. Jason, you out there? Love the climbing in that area.
But I dig all of the climbing in New Mexico. The bouldering is endless.

George Perkins · · The Dungeon, NM · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 3,109

I don't know of any development there, and the likely reason is it's probably chossy and shorter than it appears from the road. But you ought to take a look, you might find the next Cochiti or Capulin. Some of the cliffbands above Ponderosa (same unit) have been climbed, and no one seems too interested.

Also, it's reasonable to drive FS roads to the top, which might allow for a shorter approach and/or allow you to circumvent private property.

Let us know what you find!

a p · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2016 · Points: 15

Will do! I'll probably go on a scouting mission next Friday.

Bill Czajkowski · · Albuquerque, NM · Joined Oct 2008 · Points: 30

Anyone know who owns that land?

a p · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2016 · Points: 15

From what i can tell it's forest service. I know some folks at Jemez Pueblo so I'll check to make sure I'm avoiding any cultural resources. As long as the approach starts from one of the usfs trail heads there shouldn't be any access problems on the approach.

Jason Halladay · · Los Alamos, NM · Joined Oct 2005 · Points: 10,337
s.price wrote:Wasn't there a thread about this a couple of months ago? Someone who knows more will certainly chime in. Jason, you out there? Love the climbing in that area. But I dig all of the climbing in New Mexico. The bouldering is endless.
Great memory, Price. mountainproject.com/v/jemez...

Not sure if he ever did take a look but worth contacting him to find out.
a p · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2016 · Points: 15

I found the rock to be better than expected. The cliff I visited was part of a drainage system so it's covered with dirt and would need significant cleaning. There aren't really any face holds, but a variety of cracks. The nicest lines look thin and difficult. Hike up took about .5 hour with no gear. One section of the crag was much better than the rest, which tended have a layer of undercut choss that made accessing the good rock impossible.
Not sure yet how the rock would react to gear- I'd want to bring some cams and bounce-test them in the cracks, but I'm fairly certain its dense enough to climb on. There are a few lines following incipient seams that could be bolted. There's feasible access from the top.

Putting up some lines here might be a fun few days out, though probably a lot of work and time spent cleaning. There's another cliff band that looks nice that I didn't have time to check out.

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