No Portaledge, Clean Walls


Original Post
Eli · · Lives in a truck · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 2,576

Yosemite or otherwise, I'm interested in walls I can climb without having to purchase a portaledge. I'd assume others would be interested in this as well. I did the prow with a hammock last year and it was somewhat regrettable.

The West Face of the Leaning Tower seems to have a bunch of good ledges.
Any others, obscure or trade routes that go clean and have decent ledges?

Michael McNutt · · Boise, Idaho · Joined Jun 2015 · Points: 5

The nose if you are fast and go during the down season. Sf of Washington column is good too. You can do north west reg route on half dome too. They are all relatively straight forward walls.

walmongr · · Gilbert AZ · Joined Aug 2015 · Points: 85

Touchstone has a nice ledge. Space shot has 2 top of the pinnacle and earth orbit. These can also be done is a fairly moderate day or fix a few and fire the next. Prodigal son has no ledges but is another fun mid length day or fix and fire.

john strand · · southern colo · Joined May 2008 · Points: 1,640

Kinda depends on how fast you are...

Mt Watkins is a good challenge, some nice ledges, awesome climbing and full variety.

Jake wander · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 165

i recently did touchstone the fix and fire method, only because they bivvy permit was already taken. while it did save us from having the haul, 2 ~60m jugs to start the day is so tiring and not in a fun way. plus sleeping on the wall is way more fun than sleeping at some campsite (in my opinion).

camp on the wall vs fix in fire is my vote!

Mark Hudon · · Lives on the road · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 415

The Nose and Salathe easily go ledgeless for a competent party although other climbers will be your biggest obstacle.
You certainly don't need a ledge for the SF of Watkins, the Reg route on HD or Leaning Tower.

Rich Brereton · · Pownal, ME · Joined May 2009 · Points: 140

Gold Wall on Ribbon Falls Wall. TRON ledge atop p4 has a good bivy for two.

King Tut · · Citrus Heights · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 440

Chouinard-Herbert.

SF of Column.

List gets a lot bigger if you are fast. :)

Eli · · Lives in a truck · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 2,576
King Tut wrote:List gets a lot bigger if you are fast. :)
We can pretend that we're fast for the sake of the thread, as of now I'm more on the molasses side of aid climbing.
kevin deweese · · Oakland, Ca · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 350

West Face of Leaning Tower go clean without a portaledge as does South Face of Washington Column. Gold Wall and Laughing at the Void go without portaledges as well. Wet Denim might go clean without a portaledge but that would also depend upon fixed gear. Lost Arrow Spire is apparently awesome because you can bring a tent instead of a ledge.

King Tut · · Citrus Heights · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 440
Eli wrote: We can pretend that we're fast for the sake of the thread, as of now I'm more on the molasses side of aid climbing.
Well, all of the Grade V routes go easily in a day:

1. North Buttress Middle
2. DNB/Ho Chi Minh
3. West Face Sentinel
4. Lurking Fear (has bivy ledge on Pitch 11)
5. Silent Line/Gold Wall are pretty big days.
6. NF Rostrum (free, but also goes as 5.9ish C1-C2)
7. Leaning Tower.
8. West Face El Cap
9. Buncha new crap on Camp 4 wall.
10. Lower Brother stuff, Kevin might have something to add here?
11. Walls up by Yosemite Falls

There's all kinds of new stuff that is in the Grade 5 range in wierd spots now.
Alec Sluser · · Concord CA · Joined Feb 2016 · Points: 33
West Face on Leaning Tower , It goes .7 C2. On pitch 4, there is a ledge big enough to sleep numerous people that also slants into the wall.
kevin deweese · · Oakland, Ca · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 350
King Tut wrote:10. Lower Brother stuff, Kevin might have something to add here?
The older aid routes on Lower Brother (pre 2010s) will require a portaledge.

My route (Blood and Coin) requires nailing.

Call of the Yeti also requires nailing but I've never done it
Toby LM · · Calimesa, CA · Joined May 2016 · Points: 5

What about Washington columns south face?. Bivy on dinner ledge.

kevin deweese · · Oakland, Ca · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 350
Toby LM wrote:What about Washington columns south face?. Bivy on dinner ledge.
kevin deweese wrote:West Face of Leaning Tower go clean without a portaledge as does South Face of Washington Column.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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