HCR or Jackson IL


Original Post
Tyler Metheney · · St Louis · Joined Sep 2016 · Points: 0

Got four whole days with the Mrs starting March 20th. We've narrowed it down to these two. She climbs around .7/.8 an I'm not much further ahead (thanks A2). Which place would you guys suggest or prefer? I think Jackson is free camping. Which one do you think would be more crowded though. Thanks in advance.

Gokul · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2011 · Points: 1,536

For those grades, HCR is probably a better bet. You can camp for free outside the property (at Kyle's Landing, I think, which is about 10 or 15 minutes away).

pat a · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 10
Tyler Metheney wrote:Got four whole days with the Mrs starting March 20th. We've narrowed it down to these two. She climbs around .7/.8 an I'm not much further ahead (thanks A2). Which place would you guys suggest or prefer? I think Jackson is free camping. Which one do you think would be more crowded though. Thanks in advance.
HCR will be more crowded, but you can point in any direction and run smack into a 5.8. Jackson Falls is pretty limiting for people climbing below 5.10, and everything is a bit sandbagged compared to HCR or the RRG.
Tyler Metheney · · St Louis · Joined Sep 2016 · Points: 0

Does Jackson have routes where you can walk to the top an set up a TR for tougher routes in case I don't feel like leading? Also if so is there already an anchor either bolts or chains? Just trying to gauge if I need to make any extra purchases.

Seth Jones · · New Lenox, IL · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 25
pat a wrote: HCR will be more crowded, but you can point in any direction and run smack into a 5.8. Jackson Falls is pretty limiting for people climbing below 5.10, and everything is a bit sandbagged compared to HCR or the RRG.
Really? I heard the ratings at Jackson were soft.
Tyler Metheney · · St Louis · Joined Sep 2016 · Points: 0
pat a wrote: HCR will be more crowded, but you can point in any direction and run smack into a 5.8. Jackson Falls is pretty limiting for people climbing below 5.10, and everything is a bit sandbagged compared to HCR or the RRG.
Probably going to Jackson. My finger can handle some low 10s I believe. I don't believe you can TR without leading at HCR. An that plays a big factor as well. She is new to lead belaying so anything I know there's a good chance I'm falling multiple times I'd rather TR. Also want the smaller crowd. Thanks for the input.
John Walters · · Webster Groves, Missouri · Joined May 2013 · Points: 0

There aren't many routes in Jackson for a sub 5.10 climber and most routes need to be lead to access anchors. Some of the good routes below 5.10 are on freestanding towers. Many are spread out around the canyon. Grades definitely feel sandbagged unless slab is your style of climbing. It's an amazing place though.

HCR is stacked with sub 5.10 routes that you can climb for days on. All routes at HCR must be lead as all the top rim properties are private and not accessible.

Nathan Self · · Louisiana · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 90
Tyler Metheney wrote:Does Jackson have routes where you can walk to the top an set up a TR for tougher routes in case I don't feel like leading? .
If I remember correctly, you approach from the top at Jackson Falls, so it should be possible to set a TR without leading.

Only 74 sub-5.10 routes listed for JF on MP....How will you manage with so few choices????
https://www.mountainproject.com/scripts/Search.php?searchType=routeFinder&minVotes=0&selectedIds=106017458&type=rock&diffMinrock=800&diffMinboulder=20000&diffMinaid=70000&diffMinice=30000&diffMinmixed=50000&diffMaxrock=2500&diffMaxboulder=21400&diffMaxaid=75260&diffMaxice=38500&diffMaxmixed=60000&is_trad_climb=1&is_sport_climb=1&is_top_rope=1&stars=0&pitches=0&sort1=rating&sort2=area

198 of same at HCR..
Tyler Metheney · · St Louis · Joined Sep 2016 · Points: 0

Man this is a tough decision. Good thing I still got a few weeks. Another deal I'm embarrassed to ask about is how are the locals around HCR? My wife is African American an I wander if people would be ok or if we're gonna get some nasty stares. Only reason I ask is because som3one brought it up to me. I don't mean HCR, just towns around it.Main goal is to climb an relax.Thanks for the advice you've given me more to think about. Cheers

Dustin Stotser · · Springfield, MO · Joined May 2014 · Points: 363

I hate to further complicate matters, but if you are looking for top rope accessible moderates in that area, you really need to look at Sam's Throne. It's mostly trad, but the campground is on top and nearly all routes can be accessed from the top via the trail system following the cliff band. Some may require a rappel to get to anchors some do not. One area in particular, the White Trash Wall, has several top accessible moderates very close by with a scramble to the top right there!

Although since you asked... I have not witnessed any racism or the like at HCR or Sams. In fact they often host a surprisingly diverse group of people given the region. However Harrison, Arkansas and the surrounding area can host some pretty shitty people.

http://static01.mediaite.com/med/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/white-pride-radio-650x362.png

That being said, the towns closer to Sams or HCR (Jasper, Ponca, Low Gap) should be fine as they host some colorful people themselves and see lots of variety in the climbers and boaters that pass through. YMMV

Tyler Metheney · · St Louis · Joined Sep 2016 · Points: 0
Dustin Stotser wrote:I hate to further complicate matters, but if you are looking for top rope accessible moderates in that area, you really need to look at Sam's Throne. It's mostly trad, but the campground is on top and nearly all routes can be accessed from the top via the trail system following the cliff band. Some may require a rappel to get to anchors some do not. One area in particular, the White Trash Wall, has several top accessible moderates very close by with a scramble to the top right there! Although since you asked... I have not witnessed any racism or the like at HCR or Sams. In fact they often host a surprisingly diverse group of people given the region. However Harrison, Arkansas and the surrounding area can host some pretty shitty people. static01.mediaite.com/med/w... That being said, the towns closer to Sams or HCR (Jasper, Ponca, Low Gap) should be fine as they host some colorful people themselves and see lots of variety in the climbers and boaters that pass through. YMMV
Sweet thanks for that info man.
Blakevan · · Dallas, TX · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 55

Let Mother Nature decide for you. Maybe the weather will be better in one of the two places.

Nathan Self · · Louisiana · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 90

SamsThrone is the bee's knees. Also free camping.

Erik Kowalczyk · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined May 2015 · Points: 48

Only bummer about HCR is price. You're looking at spending $15 per day, since they bumped up climbing fee. So 4 days = $120? For both of you.
I highly recommend Sam's Throne as an incredible climbing spot for moderate trad.
Or commute from Kyles Landing as suggested.

Michael A Parker · · Tulsa, OK · Joined Nov 2015 · Points: 1,967

It would be a shame to come to this area and not climb at HCR at least for a day. You can camp for free at Sam's and pop over to HCR for a day and only pay to climb for a day or 2. HCR hosts numerous 4 and 5 star routes that are 5.8 or below. Sure, you would have to lead them, but these are beautiful, tall routes that you owe it to yourself to get on. You won't regret it. My wife usually sticks to .7s and she was able to make it up the .8s at HCR.

There are plenty of other, smaller crags in the area that you can climb at for the duration of the trip. Sam's Throne is great and while it is mostly trad, there are some bolted routes and like others have said, you can setup TRs on a lot of routes, both sport and trad.

Hope that helps. And I hope you have a great time wherever you decide to go!

Tyler Metheney · · St Louis · Joined Sep 2016 · Points: 0

I let her decide an she picked HCR. I think the part of it being an actual ranch sold her on it. We both love animals so that will add to the joy of it all. Hopefully I can find some 10's w/o allot of crimping. If not there seems to be plenty of 5.7-5.8 to keep us busy. It stinks they raised the fee but the close scenic approach seems worth it. Thanks guys for the feedback.

Blakevan · · Dallas, TX · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 55

The horses and goats will come see you every morning.

Take a muck rake if you're climbing the North 40. :)

Make sure you visit Mr. Magoo Rock. It didn't see a lot of activity the week we were there but had some of the best .10s there. YMMV

Gokul · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2011 · Points: 1,536

Tyler, you should keep an eye on the possibility of leading an easier route and then stepping over to set a TR on a neighboring harder route. This is possible on several climbs at HCR. And the grades are super soft in the moderates - there are routes graded 5.8 at the Cliffs of Insanity, for instance, that would be 5.4 to 5.6 in most other places. Carrying a big tarp (like a standard blue tarp) can be a good idea certain times of the year, but is hardly essential - to keep your soles and stuff protected from goat pellets.

And definitely go check out Sam's Throne. Even just the views can make it worth it.

Tyler Metheney · · St Louis · Joined Sep 2016 · Points: 0
Gokul wrote:Tyler, you should keep an eye on the possibility of leading an easier route and then stepping over to set a TR on a neighboring harder route. This is possible on several climbs at HCR. And the grades are super soft in the moderates - there are routes graded 5.8 at the Cliffs of Insanity, for instance, that would be 5.4 to 5.6 in most other places. Carrying a big tarp (like a standard blue tarp) can be a good idea certain times of the year, but is hardly essential - to keep your soles and stuff protected from goat pellets. And definitely go check out Sam's Throne. Even just the views can make it worth it.
That's actually a really good idea I hadn't thought of. Aren't there routes out there with permadraws? If so that'd be sweet cause then we could challenge ourselves without losing any gear. Learned a lesson on that my first time out. lol
Blakevan · · Dallas, TX · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 55

I know Green Goblin has permadraws on it.

BTW my profile pic was taken at HCR. The horses are so tame they're more like dogs, the goats not so much.

Michael A Parker · · Tulsa, OK · Joined Nov 2015 · Points: 1,967
Blakevan wrote:I know Green Goblin has permadraws on it. BTW my profile pic was taken at HCR. The horses are so tame they're more like dogs, the goats not so much.
When did Green Goblin get permadraws? I haven't been on it in almost a year now but can't imagine why that route would ever get permas.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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