Two gumbies from New England looking for some intro sport climbing in the NRG 5.6-5.10


Original Post
Julian L · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2016 · Points: 0

Me and my friend Conor are coming down from new england in search of better weather and better bolts! We are heading out in about three weeks and we are looking for routes to climb in the NRG. We would head to the Red but it is a longer drive and larger crowds, we figured we would check in here first. We would love suggestions from locals on routes to add to the tick list, camping beta and any gear we may need past the basic sport climbing gear. ANy information at all is helpful! If anyone is looking to climb with some newbies and show us some of NRG that would be great!!!
-Julian

Alex Zucca · · University Heights · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 285

Go to Sandstonia. Geisha Girl and Mrs. Field's Follies are two of the best 5.8s anywhere. Kinesthetica is also a very good 10c.

Scytalle · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2012 · Points: 10

Sandstonia is the place to be for that range I think, though given the title I feel the need to recommend the excellent Flight of the Gumby (5.9) in Kaymoor.

Chris Whisenhunt · · Fayetteville, WV · Joined Jun 2010 · Points: 955

I'd recommend buying the guidebook and using the search function on MP.

Julian L · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2016 · Points: 0

thanks guys! keep it coming. Chris is the best guidebook to have Mike Willams's Second Edition New River Gorge Guidebooks? Or is it better to have the first edition?
I have been doing a TON of searching around on MP I just wanted to pick up some info from locals too.

Andrew AJ Jackson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 0

Summersville Lake has a high concentration of routes in the range you are looking for with the added benefit of being sunny this time of year.

Julian L · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2016 · Points: 0

Yeah I have been checking out some routes in whippoorwill and on the orange oswald wall too. Im super psyched to get somewhere where the walls are relatively dry and the weather warmer. I can confidently lead 5.11c indoors, but im not sure where that will get me outdoors. I have lead a handful of 5.7-5.9 outdoors and they have all felt solid, should I consider hopping on to harder routes?

Yant · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2016 · Points: 0

I think the NRG can feel a bit sandbagged at times, but it all depends what you are used to. Doesn't hurt to start easy and work your way up.

Cody Goldberg · · Lakewood, Colorado · Joined Feb 2016 · Points: 5

I had a lot of fun at the third buttress in meadow river gorge too. Lots of hard stuff too, but the area is just so beautiful and wild-feelin. I could only top rope 10d/11a indoors and the 10s felt honest there, with some strangely (but awesomely) unnerving moves on lead. Wherever you go, have fun! NRG is the sandman's teet

Julian L · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2016 · Points: 0

Cool! The YDS can be deceiving sometimes...
Anyone know what the better guidebook to get would be?
Mike Willams's Second Edition New River Gorge Guidebooks
or
Mike Willams's First Edition ?

AlexQuinn · · Chicago, IL · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 0

You probably want the second edition. I don't even think the first edition is in print anymore. It is a two volume set. Volume 1 alone is maybe sufficient. Notably summersville lake will be missing from volume 1 (orange oswald for example).

Andrew AJ Jackson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 0

Butchers Branch and Rico Suave at the Kaymoor wall offer quite a few tens and elevens that are popular. One of the satellite areas, of the New proper, that has a handful of quality routes in your range is Cottontop. Zero, first, second and third Buttresses at the Meadow River are worth checking out as well, I think it's some of the best quality rock in the Gorge area.

Jon Frisby · · Brooklyn, NY · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 100

Just get vol 1 of the second ed. and use MP for Summersville - pretty thorough up there.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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