Beginner Multi-pitch Sport at Smith Rock During Bird Closures


Original Post
Chris Fedorczak · · Portland, OR · Joined Dec 2016 · Points: 0

Hi,
I've got some friends coming into town at the end of March who have offered to teach me the basics of multi-pitch sport climbing. We were scoping out First Kiss, French Kiss, or possibly Wherever I May Roam, but it's my understanding that all of them will be closed due to falcon nesting at that time.

For an alternative, I was thinking Suck My Kiss P1/Thin Air P2&3 at Koala Rock.

Thoughts on other routes we should consider? I'm trying to stay in the low 10s max difficulty, but far easier is also fine.

Thanks in advance,
Chris

Jon Rhoderick · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 590

Wherever I may roam is not affected by closures. You could buy one pair of adders and do the Monkey. Sky ridge to Sky dive has 1 10+ move I believe can be pulled through on a bolt. Red wall stuff like Orgasmagoria are open. Lion Zion is also very good

Chris Fedorczak · · Portland, OR · Joined Dec 2016 · Points: 0

Wherever I May Roam stays open? Sweet! Thanks.

diepj · · PDX · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 0

Check out voyage of the cow dog. Bad name, good route.

Round river (with direct variation) is also a good mellow multi. Great belay ledges.

Kyle Tarry · · Portland, OR · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 87

In the Dihedrals, Ginger Snap to Rodney's is a nice 2-pitch sport intro with a good 1st pitch belay ledge, I think it's like 5.7 or 5.8. More popular area, but March may be fine (or it may be swamped, who knows).

Bunny Face is also a popular easy 2-pitch sport route, start of the second pitch is awkward.

These are both easier and lower commitment than WIMR, might be good for getting your transitions dialed before getting on a bigger route.

Chris Fedorczak · · Portland, OR · Joined Dec 2016 · Points: 0

Sounds great. Thanks for the suggestions.

pritchtp · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 5

I'd stay away from French Kiss. Needs cleaning. Do First Kiss if you are in the area. Thin Air has a few stronger pull moves from the belay stations but pretty smooth sailing beyond that. Round River Direct Variation would be a great intro - smooth climbing and nice belay stations.

Jake C · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2015 · Points: 0

Wherever I May Roam is a rad route, just keep in mind that it definitely gets a fair bit of traffic, so if you're taking a moment to learn the process of transitions people may be trying (hopefully asking haha) to pass you. First Kiss is good, less traffic for sure and I'd definitely reccomend Thin Air. One of my favorite routes out in the Marsupials, but if you have trad gear I'd reccomend sticking with the first pitch. Either way you can't go wrong! Also, just keep in mind that the bird closures switch each year depending on where the raptors decide to nest, so it isn't necessarily the same from year-to-year. That being said I can't remember the last tiem I saw wherever I may roam and thin air and french kiss closed to it. I have seen voyage of the cowdog closed though.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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