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route recommendations at WMWR


Original Post
P.C. · · Austin, TX · Joined Jun 2015 · Points: 21

Hi all-

Taking my first trip up to WMWR this weekend and looking for any route recommendations. I know there is the "best climbs for you in this area" option on this site, but I wanted some additional input or must do's. It would also be helpful if anyone had suggestions of feasible crag link ups so we could get some highlights or a good overview of the area for future return trips.

Looking for recommendations both sport and trad, up to 5.12.

Thanks in advance!

Chase Webb · · Little Rock, AR · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 275

Sounds like Lost Dome and Crab Eyes will suit you well this weekend. Lost Dome has some awesome bolted routes from 5.10-5.13 as well as some more moderate gear routes. Crab Eyes has some bolted 12's on the west face and some great 10's and 11's on gear. They are also very close to each other and you won't have to waste time finding your way to a new area the second day!

Creed A · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 775
Chase Webb wrote:Sounds like Lost Dome and Crab Eyes will suit you well this weekend. Lost Dome has some awesome bolted routes from 5.10-5.13 as well as some more moderate gear routes. Crab Eyes has some bolted 12's on the west face and some great 10's and 11's on gear. They are also very close to each other and you won't have to waste time finding your way to a new area the second day!
I second Chase's suggestion. Crab Eyes and Lost Dome is the best of the refuge for harder climbing.
P.C. · · Austin, TX · Joined Jun 2015 · Points: 21

Awesome! Thanks for the recommendations. Excited to check out a new spot!

Craig Childre · · Lubbock, Texas · Joined Aug 2006 · Points: 4,950

Exchanged some emails with Chris Banks last week. Who has put a ton of work into the top quality lines up on Lichen Wall. Humbly suggest this wall represents the finest stone in the refuge. If only for the 3 pitch overhung nature of the wall with exposure not found at Lost Dome or Crab Eyes. Sitting atop Lichen wall is my personal favorite view in the area. The simple short approach doesn't hurt either.

In particular, Chris scrubbed all the lichen off and rebolted, Nuclear Combat... now a solid safe mixed 4 star 11a. Off that same belay, you can hit the classic 4 star League of Doom 11c and finish it off with the 4 star Space Balls 11a.

Other 4 star routes in the Narrows. Aerial Anticipation - sporty 11a, stupid cool moves pulling buckets. Dr. Coolhead a friction 10d, would be a monster to lead onsite. Crazy Alice, great warm-up/cool down 8.

Lost Dome and Crab Eyes will be far better up in the 12 and 13 range, I just prefer the overall experience of a taller piece like Lichen Wall. I enjoy the hike in more too, good vistas, interesting easy to follow trail. Even if you don't climb here, the hike alone is worth a visit.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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