Belaying with a cinch
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After watching the cinch video in the Grigri PSA thread, I was prompted to go ahead and throw this on here. Been thinking about it for awhile. I have comments, but also questions, on top rope belaying with this device. |
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I'm guessing that you're talking about Urban Ascent. They teach PBUS there and it's definitely an acceptable method of belaying with a cinch. |
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"Question one: if a brake hand does anything at all with this device? And, since they advise to always have the brake hand with two fingers on the device and three fingers on the rope, what good is just three fingers closing, right at the device?" |
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Thanks, guys! |
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Old lady H wrote:For starters, I have not found any top rope instructions, oddly.In software business, support is only provided for the latest versions, so I'll tell you about Trango-Vergo ;) Works fine for top-roping duty. Gets loaded exactly the same way as for lead belaying. When pulling in slack you have the usual choice - PBUS, alternating hands, or just the brake hand sliding up the rope. If a fall happens, device gets rotated up, locks up. Lowering is comparable to GG2, perhaps a little better. |
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Thanks, again! |
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Old lady H wrote:Thanks, again! Anyone have more information about the "known failure" of cinch? And, what are you working with if that should happen? I will assume the whole hand above the device defeating it, is dependant on the brake hand being AWOL! Best, HelenThe "known failure" of the Cinch (apart from holding the body or holding it too high if I remember rightly) is holding the brake strand down and the the live strand as well making a straight line so the rope runs through the device. The "unknown failure" is when experienced users do everything right with an unworn deviece and still drop the climber. The change in the manufacturers instructions to use the device upside down has removed most of the failure modes. Buy a GriGri. |
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Hello Old lady H, Old lady H wrote:Question one: if a brake hand does anything at all with this device? And, since they advise to always have the brake hand with two fingers on the device and three fingers on the rope, what good is just three fingers closing, right at the device? Really?This setup is for lead belaying only. Top roping you'd have one hand firmly on the brake strand and one lightly on the climbers strand making sure that both hands firmly grasp the brake strand during a fall. Switching the climbers strand hand to join the one on the brake strand is a good practice for any belay device. Keeping three fingers wrapped around the brake strand is to make sure the device locks when the leader falls. It is brake assisted so it doesn't require much force on the brake hand to make the device lock. That being said, with all the Cinch posts I sifted through in the links below, there seems to be enough evidence to show that much like lead belaying with a Grigri with your thumb on the brake cam the whole time is a bad idea... Lead belaying with the Cinch in feed method the whole time is probably also a bad idea. Better to feed, and then right back to letting go of the Cinch and your whole brake hand firmly on the brake strand. Old lady H wrote:Question two: is it reasonable to not hold the device at all while top rope belaying, and keep that brake hand the same as a PBUS ATC belay? Yes. This is the only way you should be using it for top rope. Remember, pinching the Cinch with the thumb and first finger in the hole is for feeding slack only and usually only used for lead belaying, unless in rare moments on top rope the climber needs slack for something like a slight downward traverse. Most belay devices in terms of top roping are quite similar taking in slack. It's the feeding of slack in brake assisted belay devices that are all different. Old lady H wrote:Question three: On a top rope belay, if a hand is above the device to pull in slack, will that defeat it if there is a fall right then? Then, the big ticket issue. Failure.Again, this is the old slip slap slide belay method shown in the video that you should not be using. Use the PBUS method that you are familiar with, or hand over hand. Whether it locks or not with the brake strand above the belay device I do not know. I've never owned a Cinch to test this scenario. A lot of brake assisted belay devices won't lock with the brake strand above it. Assume the Cinch won't either. People who used the slip slap slide method of belaying learned to quickly pull the brake hand down below the belay device during a fall. As you so smartly have surmised, this old method of belaying is not as safe as PBUS or hand over hand if you are not paying attention and not well trained. Old lady H wrote:Question four: How abrupt is that failure point? Would you see the wear when loading? Is a yank test sufficient on a preloaded device?From what I've read people either start to experience some rope slippage when holding a climber or it does not lock up reliably. Eventually it will not lock up at all. Perhaps other Cinch or former Cinch users will speak up about this. The moment you suspect it is not safe you either replace the pin, or destroy it with a hammer and throw away, or preferably recycle the whole device. Yes you can see the wear. Reference the link below: cascadeclimbers.com/forum/u… You can see the pin wear when you open it up to load the rope. If your gym has the Cinch's already installed on the rope, unless you purposely pull it apart to check it, you will never see the wear. You should also check the metal plate on the opposite side of where the rope gets pinched by the pin. Once that metal plate is worn, replacing the pin will not fix it. Also much like a Grigri, the sides will wear. You can see this in the last photo in the above link. Any severe enough wear to the sides that keep the device locking up as it should or potentially damaging the sheath if worn completely through is your sign to retire the device. A yank test probably does not have sufficient force to tell you if a worn Cinch is safe to use. Test it in a gym with a crash pad and the leader or climber falling at low enough heights that the crash pad will protect them if it does not hold. Otherwise if you suspect it's not safe, don't use it and retire it. Old lady H wrote:Question five: When/if it fails, I assume you then have no braking, just hanging on? Is that about the same as if the handle was wide open? Or do you get anything from having your brake hand down?My understanding is that you will little to no braking effect besides whatever friction your brake hand(s) can provide. So yes, much like having the brake release lever wide open. A good idea to use belay gloves on both hands with this device. From what I've read Grigri's are not much better when the brake does not engage. Here's the links of everything I could find of Cinch accidents that are mostly user error, with some that are worn. mountainproject.com/v/belay… mountainproject.com/v/lost-… mountainproject.com/v/trang… mountainproject.com/v/belay… mountainproject.com/v/trang… mountainproject.com/v/trang… mountainproject.com/v/yet-a… mountainproject.com/v/warni… ---------------------------------------------------- Also of interest is these two videos of rope slipping through a Cinch: youtube.com/watch?v=Cyt24hJ… This first one says nothing about the condition of the Cinch, so it could be a brand new rope with dry treatment which is very slippery and reduces braking force on most belay devices. youtube.com/watch?v=eGMPKpC… From what I've been able to make sense of the google translate of the description, this was either a new Cinch, or new enough one that the pin was not worn. They returned it to the dealer for credit and replaced it with a Grigri that did not do this. Again, this could be a new dry treated rope causing this slippage. Another notch up for the Grigri and it's holding power. |
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Anotherclimber, thanks so much! |
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No problem. Glad to be of help. Sounds like you've got things figured out. |