Looking for additional beta on U-Notch, North Palisade


Original Post
Jackson Compean · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2016 · Points: 0

Roughly how long is the chimney at the top? I keep seeing it listed as two short pitches. Is that two short pitches with a 50m? In other words, could I link the two with a 70m line or is it actually longer?

pcass · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2014 · Points: 0

I am sure you could link them with a 70, but I recall it meandering a bit so rope drag might be the crux doing it that way.

Jackson Compean · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2016 · Points: 0
pcass wrote:I am sure you could link them with a 70, but I recall it meandering a bit so rope drag might be the crux doing it that way.
Cool thanks. We'll probably end up splitting it up anyhow so both of us can get a little lead time. Just thinking about it as an option to save some time if needed.

Any specific recommendations on the rack? I'm planning on bringing the standard nuts, singles of c4,s from 0.5 to 2, and maybe a couple screws for the lower section, and a 3" hex purely for style points (and miniscule weight savings). Am I missing anything? I haven't read if any gnarly runouts on the route that would necessitate additional gear.
C Brooks · · Fresno, CA · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 516

Why would you want to drag a 70 meter rope all the way back there?

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 275

Unless you're really slow building an anchor, the difference in time between linking two pitches or doing two separate pitches is negligible. Hope you have fun.

Chris Owen · · Big Bear Lake · Joined Jan 2002 · Points: 10,061

I agree with the comments above - there's no point in taking a 70m rope just to do the Open Chimney option in one long pitch. I've done it twice but both times solo. Your best option for speed is to start early and move fast in the couloir.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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