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Castle Rock Local Ethics - Climbing After Rain?

Original Post
Patrick Busch · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2017 · Points: 0

Hello everybody:

I'm going to be visiting San Francisco next weekend (Feb. 24-26) and was hoping to check out Castle Rock. Right now the weather forecast is clear for Wednesday, Thursday, and Friday, but a chance of rain on Saturday and Sunday. Where I'm from, we don't climb sandstone after rain because you can break off holds. But there are a couple of bouldering problems sheltered by overhangs that always stay dry even when it rains, and people will climb those. I'm wondering if there are any similar problems at Castle Rock that stay dry when it rains? Would appreciate knowing what the local ethic is, and also if there are any areas that people boulder nearby when Castle Rock is wet.

Many thanks!

G-Raw · · Berkeley, CA · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 101

Sandstone in warm temps or open forest should be given a day to dry for every day of 5 days rain gets 5 days to dry in 70 degrees. During colder months in a well canopied area 2 days per day of 5 days rain gets 10 days to dry in 60 degree weather. Crimps are the most sensitive so if you feel that things maybe questionable don't climb crimp lines. With that being said I wouldn't climb there with the time frame you mentioned based on the rain we have gotten. And most boulders are well hidden by the canopy.

dholte · · South San Francisco, CA · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 498

I don't think anything near castle rock is climbable this week. We've gotten so much rain, the rock and the ground are both sopping and saturated.

Firestone · · California · Joined Nov 2015 · Points: 449

It has been WAY too rainy for Castle any time soon. There are a few problems that are sheltered, sort of, but I can't think of any off the top of my head and they are all in the V6+ range. You could go check out the Pacifica headlands or any of the coastal bouldering in the North bay because it isn't sandstone and if you're just visiting the coast would be beautiful to climb.

Tony Lobay · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 449

It would also be too cold to be that enjoyable.

Stinson Beach may be your best bet. AFAIK it's OK right after the rain (could be wrong).

Chad Michael Namolik · · Central California · Joined Jan 2010 · Points: 1,525

Indian Rock, Berkeley?
Nats traverse.

Danny Herrera · · San Bruno, California · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 330

Make the drive to vacaville and bring a tarp

Carla R · · San Jose, CA · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 110

Accessing Castle Rock from hwy 35 is impossible right now because the road is gone, and on google it looks like the road is closed coming in from Santa Cruz on hwy 9. You'd have to do some funky backroads to get there..

Rich Liang · · Millbrae, California · Joined Nov 2014 · Points: 285

UCSC student here.... I would completely avoid the whole Santa Cruz Mountains Area right now, and maybe a month after the rain stops altogether, for your own safety. There have been, and currently developing, numerous large mud slides. Yesterday another tree fell over and completely blocked the major 4 lane highway (people started bringing chain saws and cut it apart before cal trans could respond :D) and many of the smaller roads off the 17 are either flooded, destroyed by mudslides (like highway 35), or blocked with debris.

I would also avoid the Beach areas because of waves and high water swells.

Your next best options would be:

-Indian Rock/Motar rock in Berkeley

-Mt Tamalpais Boulders

-Or one of the many great gyms!

Good Luck :p

Patrick Busch · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2017 · Points: 0

Thanks to everyone for the replies! I had a blast on Mount Tamalpais today.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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