Nice article about Pete Cleveland's unrepeated Superpin


Original Post
Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 190

http://www.sdpb.org/blogs/arts-and-culture/the-down-to-earth-rock-god/

Ran into Pete on my way to the CCC parking lot yesterday and got to talking with him about his bold exploits back in the day (";another day at the office,"; as he calls it). Found this article, which was quite appropo, so I thought I'd share it. Also mentions John Gill and the forum's own Rich Goldstone. Nice piece of climbing history!

Seth Jones · · New Lenox, IL · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 25

I had the privilege of meeting Pete last spring up. What an interesting guy. Would love to sit around a campfire and listen to some of his stories.

Jack C. · · Calgary, AB · Joined Mar 2013 · Points: 325

Good old Pete. He came feet away from breaking my back letting me down a little ice flow WAY too fast last year. Fun times. I've mad respect for him as a climber and very little as a belayer.

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 190

Hahaha. He's definitely belayed me off a tree before...and just to be clear, that's in place of a harness, not as an anchor (although, coincidentally, his anchor was also a single tree).

Seth Jones · · New Lenox, IL · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 25
Ted Pinson wrote:Hahaha. He's definitely belayed me off a tree before...
Whats wrong with belaying someone off a tree?

Edit: Saw your clarification. Was it a hip belay redirected around a tree or something else? Was he belaying from the top or bottom of the climb? Just trying to picture this scenario lol. Paging Healyje for a hip belay reference.
Justin Meyer · · Madison, WI · Joined May 2012 · Points: 51

Good article, thanks for sharing it.

Scott McMahon · · Boulder, CO · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 1,425

great read!

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 190

Seth, the belayer's body is not in the system. You basically hitch a tree and connect a locker, then hang the Belay device from it instead of your belay loop. It otherwise works just like a normal slingshot toprope belay, it's just more than a little ridiculous.

Seth Jones · · New Lenox, IL · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 25
Ted Pinson wrote:Seth, the belayer's body is not in the system. You basically hitch a tree and connect a locker, then hang the Belay device from it instead of your belay loop. It otherwise works just like a normal slingshot toprope belay, it's just more than a little ridiculous.
Ah, I gotcha. I don't see a problem with it for TR assuming the tree is solid.
Sean Peter · · IL · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 40

The issue winds up being that they may setup a redundant anchor, but then negate the redundancy by using just one tied sling to belay from - at times not off a solid tree but a cruddy loop of a tree root sticking out of the ground!!

Thanks for posting that article Ted. Great read. It's neat how a guy who did some wildly bold stuff was also just as happy to do some of his most ground breaking stuff on TR. He clearly is a guy who just loves to climb.

Seth Jones · · New Lenox, IL · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 25

Oh no, not a single sling!!! That's so much worse than trusting a single belay device, single belay biner, single belay loop, single rope, ect!!!

Chris treggE · · Madison, WI · Joined May 2007 · Points: 9,285

Rochester MN local Jeremy Schaar (owns Roca Climbing Gym) also climbed Pete's route. There's some comments about it under the route here on MP. So it has been repeated, at least once, as opposed to what this article says. Great article otherwise.

Doug Hemken · · Madison, WI · Joined Oct 2004 · Points: 5,392

Dave would be a better judge of whether Jeremy repeated Pete's route than any of us.

Chris treggE · · Madison, WI · Joined May 2007 · Points: 9,285
Doug Hemken wrote:Dave would be a better judge of whether Jeremy repeated Pete's route than any of us.
By Jeremy Schaar
Jun 23, 2016

I had a long talk with Dave Groth about the route. He has also tried to repeat the route. He did confirm with me that the route I red pointed is the Pete Cleveland Route. In my book I believe that counts as a Second Ascent.


https://www.mountainproject.com/v/pete-cleveland-route/108472076
Sean Peter · · IL · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 40
Seth Jones wrote:Oh no, not a single sling!!! That's so much worse than trusting a single belay device, single belay biner, single belay loop, single rope, ect!!!
And a single tree root about as big around as your wrist.

But yeah- if a tied sling is at 22kn- but then take 40% or more off for the water knot... I'd say that IS quite a bit worse than a single belay loop (typically well over 22kn) a rope (far more than that) or a biner (unless its cross loaded). never heard of an atc shattering- so I'm fine with one of those too. An old ratty sling tied around a root when you could just hook in to your harness? Call me a chicken I guess... I know it's worked fine for many. Maybe I'm missing the value of the added comfort. But it's even more WORK to tie the sling around the root than it would be to clip the harness!!
Jack C. · · Calgary, AB · Joined Mar 2013 · Points: 325

Well I can't speak for others but in my experience he just tied the end of his rope around his waist which is the reason for the direct tree-belay: no harness to belay from.

Sean Peter · · IL · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 40

Ha! Quite true.
But really such a great guy. Wonderful outlook on life. Super encouraging. And his stories -ranging from climbing to quantum physics to civil rights and on- are fantastic. Thank goodness the stories are great, cause you often can't get too many words in edgewise :)

Woodchuck ATC · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 3,110
Seth Jones wrote:Oh no, not a single sling!!! That's so much worse than trusting a single belay device, single belay biner, single belay loop, single rope, ect!!!
Or trusting a single climber too! I want a bunch of them, multiple belayers like multiple anchor points. Oh, also by single, not meaning I need 'married' climbers for a trusty belay,,just to clarify.
Woodchuck ATC · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 3,110
Jack C. wrote:Well I can't speak for others but in my experience he just tied the end of his rope around his waist which is the reason for the direct tree-belay: no harness to belay from.
Standard operational procedure for Pete. Remember just gold line tie ins, or at best a two inch wide swami belt wrapped around waist for our climbs at DL. Standard hip belay on top rope for most of the classics along East Ramparts we climbed back in late 70s'. Only a couple harness companies out back then, and we dirt bags' could not afford to buy one anyway. Dont' even get me started about shoes..!!
Woodchuck ATC · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 3,110
Ted Pinson wrote:http://www.sdpb.org/blogs/arts-and-culture/the-down-to-earth-rock-god/ Ran into Pete on my way to the CCC parking lot yesterday and got to talking with him about his bold exploits back in the day (";another day at the office,"; as he calls it). Found this article, which was quite appropo, so I thought I'd share it. Also mentions John Gill and the forum's own Rich Goldstone. Nice piece of climbing history!
I know after first meeting Pete at DL in early 70's, and in midst of making my mid 70's road trip plans to go out west, I got my copy of the Needles climbers guidebook. Spent weeks reading, planning my stops at the Ten Pins, Thimble, areas just to be in awe of climbs I was not near ready to try. Did 'easier' routes over by Sylvan Lake instead.
Great to see that article again..
Seth Jones · · New Lenox, IL · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 25
Sean Peter wrote: And a single tree root about as big around as your wrist. But yeah- if a tied sling is at 22kn- but then take 40% or more off for the water knot... I'd say that IS quite a bit worse than a single belay loop (typically well over 22kn) a rope (far more than that) or a biner (unless its cross loaded). never heard of an atc shattering- so I'm fine with one of those too. An old ratty sling tied around a root when you could just hook in to your harness? Call me a chicken I guess... I know it's worked fine for many. Maybe I'm missing the value of the added comfort. But it's even more WORK to tie the sling around the root than it would be to clip the harness!!
I guess I'd have to see the root but I certainly wouldn't be worried about the sling.

22kn x .6 = 13.2kn. Figure it's worn and old, take away more than half the strength, leaving you with 7kn which is way more than a TR situation should ever put on the belay. People whip on gear rated less than 7kn in a lead falls all the time.

Just curious, did you guys say anything to Pete when you witnessed the stuff you have been talking shit about? Any of you back down and decide not to climb? Anyone know of a time Pete actually got someone hurt?
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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