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First Yosemite climb?


Original Post
Nick Noonan · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2017 · Points: 0

I'm going to take a road trip out to Yosemite this summer with a buddy of mine. I have no clue what to try out there or even what to expect. All my climbing experience is on the east coast. Mostly quartzite in western NC. Any body have suggestions for super easy routes(I've climbed on granite once and I'd like to take it easy in Yosemite) that can be done in a day round trip?

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 275

Get a guidebook and see what's within your ability.

Here's a popular guidebook with lots of good info:

supertopo.com/packs/yofreec…

Edit: Here are a few easier multi-pitch climbs to start on:

Munginella (5.6 3 pitches)

The Grack, Center (5.6 3 pitches)

After Six (5.7 5 or 6 pitches)

Muscrat · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 3,610

How about a little more personal info?
Can you climb 25 pitches in a day? Solo 5.7?
What's easy, 5.5 or 5.10.c? How are you with exposure. Like slabs? Sport, trad....etc?
DO a little research, there's this cool site called Mountain Project, with this thing called search. Try it.
:)

C Brooks · · Fresno, CA · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 546

All fun, all very doable by even a fairly novice trad climber

1. After Six and After Seven
2. Nutcracker
3. The Grack
4. Craging at the Church Bowl - Bishop's Terrace
5. Snake Dike
6. Cathedral Peak
7. Tenaya Peak
8. Royal Arches
9. Super Slide
10. Central Pillar of Frenzy

Nick Noonan · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2017 · Points: 0

In terms of grading I'd like to max out at 5.8. I have climbed granite once. Im hoping to get some really rad exposure of the valley. How is the pro on snakes dike?

C Brooks · · Fresno, CA · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 546

The couple of hard moves on Snake Dike are well protected. The rest is wildly run-out. Honestly though, the runouts are no big deal - I am no hard-man, and I often cry like a baby when leading, but Snake Dike was just plain fun - and you get to top out on Half-Dome. Cool

Scott O · · California · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 65

I just looked at your tick list and will take it as representative of what you're climbing now.

For a FIRST climb, coming from Western NC (which is where I learned to climb), Bishop's Terrace is hard to beat. Easy approach and spectacular climbing without a lot of commitment.

After that, I'd spend a day at Five Open Books. Munginella, Commitment, and Caverns are all excellent.

Manure Pile Buttress is another great place for an intro to the Valley - Nutcracker, After Six... all excellent.

Scott O · · California · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 65

And, if it's summer, the SE buttress of Cathedral Peak is probably my favorite climb in the world. Start early, as it's crowded.

Scott O · · California · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 65
Nick Noonan wrote:In terms of grading I'd like to max out at 5.8. I have climbed granite once. Im hoping to get some really rad exposure of the valley. How is the pro on snakes dike?
It's like Stone Mountain, but with better pro through the crux. Also more features on the runout section.
Nick Noonan · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2017 · Points: 0

I'm still trying to figure out how to use this app so my tick list is quite bare unfortunately :(

C Brooks · · Fresno, CA · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 546

Also Matthes Crest - Type I fun

Scott O · · California · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 65
C Brooks wrote:Also Matthes Crest - Type I fun
Just start extra early or better yet get a wilderness permit and camp near the start. You'll want to be comfortable with simul climbing.
Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65
Nick Noonan wrote:In terms of grading I'd like to max out at 5.8.
Stay off of Nutcracker then (if you're leading). It's easy to sprain/break an ankle on the crux mantle that has tricky, not-quite-where-you-want-it,so-so pro.
Muscrat · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 3,610

OK, here
If you click on advanced next to search bar, then next to location - california-Yosemite valley- then pick your criteria, you are there.
Expect the valley to be ridiculous crowded, lines on everything <5.10, and camping impossible.
And it is an amazing place.

Hank Caylor · · Glenwood Springs, CO · Joined Dec 2003 · Points: 615

What a great topic this would have been if this had been about the title..

SRB25 · · Woodside, ca · Joined Nov 2014 · Points: 5

Not to poopoo anything here as everyone has great input. What about suggesting some routes that aren't some of the most trafficked climbs in Northern California. Those ten listed probably get 90% plus of the traffic and represent 0.01% of the cool routes to be done. Again, not poopooing as they are good suggestions.

C Brooks · · Fresno, CA · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 546
SRB25 wrote:Not to poopoo anything here as everyone has great input. What about suggesting some routes that aren't some of the most trafficked climbs in Northern California. Those ten listed probably get 90% plus of the traffic and represent 0.01% of the cool routes to be done. Again, not poopooing as they are good suggestions.
Agreed. Going to classic climbs in classic areas always means huge crowds. Do them once, its worth the frustration.
Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65
Muscrat wrote:Expect the valley to be ridiculous crowded, lines on everything <5.10, and camping impossible.
Good point for the OP - do you have campground reservations secured? If not, it's way too late unless there are cancellations. Prepare to line up at the CG kiosks at 5am to try to secure a site or sleep somewhere out of the valley.
FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 275

My original list of suggested climbs are better for the fall and spring. Since you are going in the summer, consider going to Tuolumne Meadow, which is still part of Yosemite National Park. The temperatures in TM will be much more pleasant in the summer than in Yosemite Valley. Of course, you'll want to drive through the Valley, too.

john strand · · southern colo · Joined May 2008 · Points: 1,640
Scott O wrote: It's like Stone Mountain, but with better pro through the crux. Also more features on the runout section.
Good analogy except the Stone stuff is harder as well
Chad N · · Three Rivers, CA · Joined Jan 2010 · Points: 1,510
Nick Noonan wrote:I'm going to take a road trip out to Yosemite this summer with a buddy of mine. I have no clue what to try out there or even what to expect. All my climbing experience is on the east coast. Mostly quartzite in western NC. Any body have suggestions for super easy routes(I've climbed on granite once and I'd like to take it easy in Yosemite) that can be done in a day round trip?
The Grack center 5.6 3P.

Ever climbed at cereal wall/rumbling bald? I thought the cereal wall was similar to Yosemite
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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