Looking to by some Half ropes


Original Post
kcradford · · Asheville, NC · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 5

I am looking to buy a set of half ropes, mostly for Multi pitch trad climbing.

I have been looking at the Beal Opera or the joker some thing light and skinny. Ive got plenty of experience using other peoples the half rope.

I am wondering if anybody has any recommendations on ropes and can give some feed back on how they have preformed over time. These would not be my primary ropes I figure I would use them on routes that need a double rope rap or with 3 people.

thoughts?

t.farrell · · New York, NY · Joined Aug 2016 · Points: 60

Don't suppose you'd be interested in a 30m one?

amockalypsenow · · San Diego · Joined Nov 2014 · Points: 685

I dig em. They are pretty common in Europe.

Luc-514 · · Montreal, Quebec · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 8,903

Two followers? stick to ropes above 8mm like:
Sterling - Duetto Evolution 8.4mm
Mammut - Genesis 8.5mm

Smaller ropes have a tendency of pinching and locking using ATC guide or reverso.

ALuckyDuck · · Denver, CO · Joined May 2014 · Points: 60

+1 on the Mammut Genesis 8.5. I've got a pair and they handle quite well. At 47g/m you certainly feel much lighter. Can't attest to their durability as I only use them on rare occasions. But I can't imagine I'd want to climb on anything thinner. The dry treatment repels dirt nicely. Overall I'd def recommend Genesis, but keep in mind if multi pitch trad makes up the majority of your climbing, you'll be putting them through the wringer. I imagine you can get several workhorse ropes for the price of a pair of half ropes. Although the Genesis dry is going for $150 on backcountry.com at the moment w/ free shipping. Good luck!

Luc-514 · · Montreal, Quebec · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 8,903
ALuckyDuck wrote: but keep in mind if multi pitch trad makes up the majority of your climbing, you'll be putting them through the wringer. I imagine you can get several workhorse ropes for the price of a pair of half ropes. Although the Genesis dry is going for $150 on backcountry.com at the moment w/ free shipping. Good luck!
I've abused a couple sets of genesis ropes, they are workhorses, can't kill them!
So much so that I'm sporting the smaller 8mm Phoenix now.
kcradford · · Asheville, NC · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 5
ALuckyDuck wrote:+1 on the Mammut Genesis 8.5. I've got a pair and they handle quite well. At 47g/m you certainly feel much lighter. Can't attest to their durability as I only use them on rare occasions. But I can't imagine I'd want to climb on anything thinner. The dry treatment repels dirt nicely. Overall I'd def recommend Genesis, but keep in mind if multi pitch trad makes up the majority of your climbing, you'll be putting them through the wringer. I imagine you can get several workhorse ropes for the price of a pair of half ropes. Although the Genesis dry is going for $150 on backcountry.com at the moment w/ free shipping. Good luck!
Thanks for the input, I am pretty sure have climbed on a few of Genesis. I don't think I would go for anything thinner than an 8.5. If I had to guess 35-40% could be done on doubles and about half of the time I use my partners rope. I already have a couple of workhorse ropes that get used for single pitch days.
Nick Drake · · Newcastle, WA · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 478

If you're primarily climbing lower angle alpine with a lot of abrasion the beal pro mountain has a really thick sheath.

I've put a lot of mileage on an 8mm phoenix, by itself folded over for mostly simul climbing alpine or combined with my 9mm sterling nano for half ropes. Actually I've lead on it as a single strand a few times too, but we don't admit that on the internet.
Sheath has held up well. Catch is actually a tad firmer than expected. Only knocks on it are that it's very supple and can turn into medusa's hair with poor management on rappel (never munter rap on it, only plates).

DGraham · · Dallas · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 846

Recently got the petzl mambos 8.5mm, there not bad. At 47g/m they felt pretty heavy to me by the full length of a 60 meter pitch. I can't say I recommend (I cant compare them to anything else) them but i belive they're the most inexpensive half rope (in the 8mm range) and they get the job done.

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 275

"Buy"

Alex Rogers · · Sydney, Australia · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 40

If you are not using half-rope technique a lot, then I'd do as you suggest and get a triple-rated rope like the Joker. They are as thin as the half ropes we used back in the good old days, but are rated as single ropes as well, making them incredibly useful / flexible.

I have used the Sterling Nano 9.2 (current edition is 9mm) and Beal Joker (9.1) and Mammut Finesse (9.3) triple rated ropes and liked them all. I think the Mammut Serenity is the skinniest of the current crop at 8.7(!) - I haven't tried this, but they make exceptional ropes.

They are obviously not as durable as beefier singles. I got 4 years use out of my Nano, and 3 out of my Joker, climbing only once a month or so, but on some pretty sharp rock. But one sharp edge can kill your rope in a single pitch - you need to be careful how you use them. Same goes for half ropes of course. But unless you are a real specialist half-rope user, I'm not sure why you'd go for half-rated ropes instead of one of these.

Robert Michael · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 116
Alex Rogers wrote:If you are not using half-rope technique a lot, then I'd do as you suggest and get a triple-rated rope like the Joker. They are as thin as the half ropes we used back in the good old days, but are rated as single ropes as well, making them incredibly useful / flexible. I have used the Sterling Nano 9.2 (current edition is 9mm) and Beal Joker (9.1) and Mammut Finesse (9.3) triple rated ropes and liked them all. I think the Mammut Serenity is the skinniest of the current crop at 8.7(!) - I haven't tried this, but they make exceptional ropes. They are obviously not as durable as beefier singles. I got 4 years use out of my Nano, and 3 out of my Joker, climbing only once a month or so, but on some pretty sharp rock. But one sharp edge can kill your rope in a single pitch - you need to be careful how you use them. Same goes for half ropes of course. But unless you are a real specialist half-rope user, I'm not sure why you'd go for half-rated ropes instead of one of these.
I have two 8.7 Serenity ropes and love them.
kcradford · · Asheville, NC · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 5

Alex, I am definitely looking triple rated ropes the Mammute Serenity is high on my list. I have also been looking at the Beal Opera also triple rated at 8.5mm it seems pretty neat.

I am mostly looking to use them for long multi pitch days that would require 2 ropes to get down.

Nick Votto · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2008 · Points: 320

I have a brand new pair of Mammut Genesis ropes (rated as twins and halfs) that I may be willing to part with. Got them in December (still in plastic) but haven't had a chance to use them b/c of work

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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