Small gear for Eldo

Original Post
Scott · · Colorado · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 0

What are people's favorite types of small cams for Eldorado Canyon? I am currently between getting the Black Diamond C3s or X4s, but I am also open to other brands and ideas.

Kirtis Courkamp · · Golden · Joined Mar 2011 · Points: 384

offset x-4s and dmm hb offsets.

Don Ferris · · Eldorado Springs · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 175

I have a set of x4s and while I've never fallen on the .1 and .2, they've given me enough mental pro. I have a black totem cam (not basic) that I trust more than the .2 x4.

I've often thought that a .1-.2 offset x4 would get used more because of the tiny range they have. It always seems like two lobes are jammed in there and two lobes are tipped out.

A set of HB brass offset nuts will go a long way.

Monty · · Golden, CO · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 3,099

I prefer the C3's over the X4's especially in the smallest sizes. I always find that the trigger on the X4's gets in the way on those cams. The red c3 is especially useful as is a set of HB offsets.

Edit to add: Supplement with some totem basics and your set!

Nick Sweeney · · Spokane, WA · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 650

Obligatory vote for Totem Basic.

mountainhick · · Black Hawk, CO · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 120

Either totem basics or original aliens, and/or TCUs. I got a set of metolius offsets which have proved less versatile overall.


Eric and Lucie · · Boulder, CO · Joined Oct 2004 · Points: 140

I am HUGE fan of the basics on granite, but I don't use them much at Eldo because the rock can be very smooth in some of those cracks. I've actually pulled a yellow Basic out of a finger crack once simply while testing it with one sharp hand pull (textbook parallel placement).
At Eldo, I favor cams with a lower camming angle (e.g. C3 and C4 in my case), and of course, passive pro is almost always a safer bet.

VRP · · Denver, CO · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 45

I regret getting rid of my C3's specifically for Eldo. They fit well in many of the old pin scars.

ColinM · · Boulder, CO · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 50

I carry both X4s and C3s and use them both equally as often. Sometimes there's only enough width for a C3. I just got a set of DMM Peenuts which will be useful for the thin cracks.

trailridge · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 20

Really small Hexes. you will thank me later. Tri cams are great too.

Greg D · · Here · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 871

C3's for Eldo for sure. Narrower head width than the others mentioned. Will fit where others won't. They are strong and very durable. And the stiff drive springs keeps them stable. The cable is stiff in one plane which allows them to easily rotate back inline with fall direction if they have moved. X4's and aliens can't do this very well.

mountainhick · · Black Hawk, CO · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 120

BTW, the REAL small gear is doubles on small wired stoppers, occasional RPs etc.. Bring your nuts.

DMarti Marti · · custer,sd · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 0

Ive got some old cch aliens if your looking to remedy your cam situation.

Rob Subry · · Steamboat Springs · Joined Sep 2016 · Points: 0

I'm still a fan of the TCU. I find they often fit where a four cam unit won't and sometimes they just fit better, especially in pin scars and pockets.
They also have the ability to rotate slightly on the axis of the center lobe which can help keep their orientation more in the direction of the fall.
As mentioned before, having and learning how to (Properly) place small nuts is invaluable.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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