Clove hitching climber in the middle of the rope
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On multi-pitch climbs with 3 climbers, is it safe to tie in the middle climber with a clove hitch? |
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Yes, clove hitch would work but why not do an 8 on a bight? |
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This is called a cow's tail and a figure eight or clove hitch aren't the best options here. |
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Another vote for the alpine butterfly. |
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I say get familiar with the alpine butterfly as well. |
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Chris Owen wrote:Alpine girth hitchThis. Easily adjusted, easy escape, fool proof (well....) and safe. |
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Bring a second rope, it get's pretty "busy" with three at a belay. Chopping a route up into such small bites is a pain too. Assuming there's good stances and room for three every 70' or so. |
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Chris Owen wrote:Alpine girth hitchI use this when shortening the rope for simul climbing, fast and foolproof in that application. If you're going to tie in with a knot on a bite and use a biner to attach to the belay loop don't think that a screwgate is foolproof. I've seen gates spin open on glaciers more than once. |
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Butterfly knot |
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I'm a big fan of the clove hitch as an anchoring knot, but I wouldn't use it to tie in a climber. The reason is that the clove hitch might not behave well under the many varied rope motions that would be typical of a tie-in situation. The climber would have to continually check it to make sure it was fully tightened, because if it loosened at all, it could ride over the gate of the attaching carabiner, and even if that carabiner is a locker there would be a potential for failure. |
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Thanks guys, I like both of those options. The alpine girth is a neat trick if you are out of lockers. |
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Has anyone on here fallen on the Alpine girth hitch? Does it slid? |
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An inline figure 8 is a good knot to know for various anchor and or hauling scenarios. |
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Matt C - if you have any concerns that the alpine girth hitch might slip, you can use a bowline on a bight instead. |
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Marty C wrote:An inline figure 8 is a good knot to know for various anchor and or hauling scenarios. However, its use as a mid line tie in is not a good choice. It takes a load in only one direction; if it is loaded in the opposite direction the knot reverts to a slip knot. Not something you would want as a tie in knot.Are you confusing a figure 8 on a bight for the inline figure 8 (which is directional, as you pointed out)? I didn't see anyone mention the inline figure 8 before your post. |
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Brain - there was a post and video suggesting that you could use an inline 8 to tie into the middle of the rope. |
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Ah, thanks. I was trying to figure out where that came from. |
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I personally usually use the alpine butterfly knot in situations like this, because I think it's neat, but is there any reason that it is preferable over a figure eight on a bight, which is more familiar to more climbers? |
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AaronJ wrote:I personally usually use the alpine butterfly knot in situations like this, because I think it's neat, but is there any reason that it is preferable over a figure eight on a bight, which is more familiar to more climbers?Alpine butterfly is more resistant to loading along the rope (ie if the bottom climber falls) Fig 8 could flip like when used as a rappel knot. Not that much bad would happen, it'd get caught up on the tie in. |
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Bowline on a bight. |