Are pins really necessary?


Original Post
Carlos Danger · · Boulder, CO · Joined Feb 2017 · Points: 0

After thumbing through my RMNP guide book a lot of winter routes suggest pins for the rack. I know it probably depends on the route but just how helpful are they in most cases? I have climbed a lot of rock routes where the guide book suggests an extra hand sized piece or a number four. Often it is easy to get by without the extra pro. I do not have a lot of experience mixed climbing but is something I am interested in.

Thanks,
Carlos Danger

rocknice2 · · Montreal, Quebec · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 3,018

Well, if the cracks are iced up it will be difficult to impossible to get regular rock gear into them.

Goodhue · · Boulder, CO · Joined Aug 2008 · Points: 10

You'll be happy to have them if you need them. Make sure to learn how to properly place and clean them as well.

-mn · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 25

A kb, la and a baby angle have saved the day many a time.

Bill Kirby · · Baltimore Maryland · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 480
rocknice2 wrote:Well, if the cracks are iced up it will be difficult to impossible to get regular rock gear into them.
Listen to this guy. Maybe bring an Ice Spectre too.
Luc-514 · · Montreal, Quebec · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 8,953

Climbing 1/2 inch of ice on a rock slab, only pro on the pitch is 30 feet back and it's a tied-off stubby 1/3 of the way in,
You see a half in crack buried in the ice,
happy I had a baby angle that day.

VRP · · Denver, CO · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 45

Yes-often times in RMNP your best option for pro is a thin seam that will only take a KB or LA.

Michael Schneider · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 735
Carlos Danger wrote:After thumbing through my RMNP guide book a lot of winter routes suggest pins for the rack. I know it probably depends on the route but just how helpful are they in most cases? I have climbed a lot of rock routes where the guide book suggests an extra hand sized piece or a number four. Often it is easy to get by without the extra pro. I do not have a lot of experience mixed climbing but is something I am interested in. Thanks, Carlos Danger
I did not look up who Carlos was. I thought for sure this was a troll.
Danger, U are gonna die!
Mixed climbing
Tools, screws(3-4?)and Pins ! As many as dozen or more of them
so you can build a solid anchor on icy ledges & snowed and ice-filled cracks
I've pounded a pin Into a tree-trunk, to redirect a belay.
Learn how to set a pin with out over-driving it.
It seems that a competent winter mixed rack has to include; things that you can hammer in.
Rock gear, sure, some.
a handful of nuts and cams but you will be climbing past ice & Iced up rock so
as has been pointed out, you need to have the right gear for the game.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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