Quick recovery


Original Post
Tyler Metheney · · St Louis · Joined Sep 2016 · Points: 0

So it's been a week without climbing now and I hate it. I can now make a fist at least pain free. Curious if anyone out there has recovered on the quick side of the A2 pulley injury? Instead of the usual 4-8 weeks.

Jason Halladay · · Los Alamos, NM · Joined Oct 2005 · Points: 10,472

This guy might have some advice

Notoriously quick to recover from injuries

Seriously, though, hope you recover quickly.

Tylerpratt · · Litchfield, Connecticut · Joined Feb 2016 · Points: 35
Tyler Metheney wrote:So it's been a week without climbing now and I hate it. I can now make a fist at least pain free. Curious if anyone out there has recovered on the quick side of the A2 pulley injury? Instead of the usual 4-8 weeks.
Best thing you could have done is ice it immediately and took anti-inflammatory immediately. Rest that shit up.

I've never been back on in 8 weeks without pain after a bad tendon injury. But, that's just me.
Clayton Knudson · · Moab, UT · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 35

I would suggest to be careful about getting on rock too quick. Might feel ok to climb a bit, but by the time you realize its not you have already re-injured it. I understand the frustration. I dislocated my knee a week and a half ago and am pretty much going crazy. 4-6 weeks one time is better than two weeks, then two weeks, then two weeks, then two weeks, etc.

Use the time to train the large muscles and core, improve you climbing that way. Its an opportunity

Tyler Metheney · · St Louis · Joined Sep 2016 · Points: 0

I've heard some say total rest for a good amount of time, others say wait till you don't have pain then tape and ease back in. I had a trip with my wife planned next Friday to a small crag. It will be her first outdoors climb an I'm really excited for her. I know I can't just go back to the grade I was because it's just not doable pain wise. But I'm not ruling out a couple 5.4's -5.6's. The worst part is the mental battle. I know alot of people once it quits hurting rush back in an it's a trap. I guess worst case scenario I just set up a TR for her an watch her have a fun experience.

D Argyle · · Green Mountain Falls, CO · Joined Dec 2005 · Points: 570

I feel your pain brother, I just messed up the A3 on my left ring finger so I'm in the same boat.

If I've learned anything from other climbing injuries, it's DON'T RUSH IT. You only end up prolonging a return to full-bore climbing. As with any tendon or ligament it's important to use it as part of the recovery process, but start slowly. After pain subsides begin mobility and strength exercises and VERY light climbing. I can't speak for your body but I'd imagine 5.4-5.6 would be ok, just buddy tape it and avoid anything tweaky. Good luck!

Tyler Metheney · · St Louis · Joined Sep 2016 · Points: 0

Not trying to spark an argument, but has anyone found open hand to be better then closed once getting back from an injury? I've only been climbing for 7 months so I really appreciate all this advice an related experiences.

D Argyle · · Green Mountain Falls, CO · Joined Dec 2005 · Points: 570

Generally speaking your wrists, fingers and elbows will thank you for using more open hand grips, regardless of whether or not you are recovering from something. You definitely want to avoid cranking in a closed crimp on that injured finger until after a significant amount of recovery and rehab since that particular grip puts tremendous strain on those pulleys. Like Clayton said, be smart. Use this time to train and build up core and antagonists. Don't make the mistake of over doing it too soon. So many of us have done that and we all end up regretting it.

Tyler Metheney · · St Louis · Joined Sep 2016 · Points: 0

Roger that, kinda sucks cause in my mind close crimps were my bread an butter especially on 11+ routes. I had the mentality that I had invincible power in these little guys until POP. Definitely gonna throw that attitude out an maybe start to refocus on technique like I did in the beginning.

Tylerpratt · · Litchfield, Connecticut · Joined Feb 2016 · Points: 35
Tyler Metheney wrote:Roger that, kinda sucks cause in my mind close crimps were my bread an butter especially on 11+ routes. I had the mentality that I had invincible power in these little guys until POP. Definitely gonna throw that attitude out an maybe start to refocus on technique like I did in the beginning.
You've only been climbing for 7 months and are closed crimping 11+ and pulling hard without a worry. I'm not surprised you popped a tendon. How much of this 7 months have you been doing easy hang board workouts? I say easy because you need to slowly work your finger tendons into this. Normally, people are eased in via lack of skill and experience or strength. A lot of people are stuck at the 5.7-5.9 range for months if not over a year when they start climbing (yes a very broad generalization i know) You may be super strong, maybe you train a ton, but, your finger tendons probably aren't as strong or as caught up to the rest of your body fitness. I suggest slowing down the climbing grade progress for a while and work on strengthening your fingers... when you recover. You really need to take this easy and carefully.

Closed crimps on hard routes are for people that have been finger training 1+ year or climbing for a while (years) and even then there is always a risk.

8 weeks from now you may still be injured and just not know it. You may jump right back into it and re-injure the tendon and set yourself weeks back again.

Take your time here.
Tyler Metheney · · St Louis · Joined Sep 2016 · Points: 0

I completely agree with you. I was training hard but maybe too hard. Usually 3-4 sessions a week. I was paying too much attention to grades where as now I could really care less an just want to climb. Probably just a beginner mistake. Lesson well learned though an I guess it was bound to happen sooner or later.

Tylerpratt · · Litchfield, Connecticut · Joined Feb 2016 · Points: 35
Tyler Metheney wrote:I completely agree with you. I was training hard but maybe too hard. Usually 3-4 sessions a week. I was paying too much attention to grades where as now I could really care less an just want to climb. Probably just a beginner mistake. Lesson well learned though an I guess it was bound to happen sooner or later.
I've seen this happen a lot. "I'm going to climb 5.13 in my first year of climbing" *POP*

I don't mean to call you out or be rude.

I just wanted to drop a experience/knowledge bomb for you. Don't ignore your fingers if you want to climb hard.

Next time you get injured at all. Ice immediately, like right the fuck away and anti-inflammatory and stop what ever is is you are doing and get into recovery mode asap.
Tyler Metheney · · St Louis · Joined Sep 2016 · Points: 0

Didn't think your rude at all. I think some of it has to do with gym climbing. We mostly all do it in the winter an when I'm in there all I thought about was grades when outdoors there could be alot lower grades but it's real rock an that to me is inspiring. I'm just goin to continue to take it easy an learn as much from this as possible.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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