Five Ten Anasazi VCS... Golden or Blue?


Original Post
Arden Clark · · Philadelphia, PA · Joined May 2016 · Points: 0

Hi guys,

I'm in the market for a sport climbing shoe. My tarantulas are trashed, and I've been climbing sport in my dedicated bouldering shoes for weeks. I've heard great things about both Anasazi VCS from Five Ten, but I can't decide which one. I heard C4 rubber is great, but would the stiffer sole of the golden ones be more suited for sport climbing/outside bouldering?

thanks in advanced,

Arden

Justin Barrett · · Russellville, AR · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 85

There's not going to be any real answer here. This comes from more of a preference standpoint than performance. Sure stiff shoes will edge better on tiny slips and soft shoes will be better at cracks and are more sensitive, but if your foot doesn't like the stiffer midsole, then you won't want to wear them.

If you would be climbing all day in them, stiff might not be a bad way to go. But if you are just bouldering and taking them off after every go, that stiffness won't play into being comfortable.

I'll say it before others do, try on both and see what you prefer.

Charlie S · · Ogden, UT · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 1,448

C4 is great for granite.

I have been pleasantly satisfied with Onyxx. After an initial break-in period of a couple pitches, it's far more versatile and has greater longevity than C4.

Dependent on your style of sport climbing, though, you may want to look at a more aggressive shoe.

EDIT: You always have the option of resoling the shoe with any rubber of your choice through a cobbler.

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 190

The tan is a classic, but C4 is amazing. Haven't used Onyx, but people don't seem to mind it. Either way, the shoe gets very soft after breaking in (which is when they truly shine). Are you sure the shoes are otherwise the same? I know one of the iterations is a low volume version for women...

Personally, I would go with the tan because it looks cooler and resole with C4, but I don't know if that is the best reasoning...

Charlie: what do you mean by Onyx is "more versatile"?

hbert · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 60

I use the C4 VCS. I tried on the same size in Tan Onyxx and found the stiff sole made it feel slightly longer at the point.

Charlie S · · Ogden, UT · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 1,448
Ted Pinson wrote:Charlie: what do you mean by Onyx is "more versatile"?
I find it's more sticky across a variety of rock types as compared to C4 (or any of the Vibram rubbers). But that's strictly anecdotal, so, take it with a grain of salt.
Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 190

Interesting. I've never noticed big discrepancies in rock types for a certain rubber before. What type of rock did C4 not perform well on?

Kevin Crum · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 10

There is nothing more satisfying than when the blue (or i call them purple) gets nice and soft and you no longer edge, you just plod your foot on whatever hold you like as your sweaty foot rotates and your toes spread as you stick to just about everything. If your feet need to be aired out, throw a heel hook. That will take them right off.

Really though if you're stumped why not consider the pinks. They seem to be a mix of both. Sticky c4 but with a stiffer midsole? If you can get an old pair of blancos they would work great as well.

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 190

There's also the new Blancos. But, yeah...I own the Pinks and they're just about perfect.

Kevin Crum · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 10

Ya but for the price of the new blancos you could probably search and get a pair of both the onyx and stealth sazis

Hobo Greg · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 110

According to 5.10 themselves (saw it at the outlet in Redlands), the onyx is stickier AND more durable than c4. Why make a rubber that's less sticky and less durable is beyond me, but having used both on the same routes on the same day, I feel the tan onyx is certainly stickier.

eli poss · · Durango, Co · Joined May 2014 · Points: 456
Hobo Greg wrote:According to 5.10 themselves (saw it at the outlet in Redlands), the onyx is stickier AND more durable than c4. Why make a rubber that's less sticky and less durable is beyond me, but having used both on the same routes on the same day, I feel the tan onyx is certainly stickier.
I dunno about that. I've used both rubbers and while the onyx edges much better, it often slips of smears where C4 will stick. I think it is a harder rubber so it's probably more durable, but it may be a toss up between 5.5mm of C4 and 4mm of onyx. When I get my shoes resoled they're the same price so I'd rather take the stickier rubber if the thicker sole of C4 will last as long as onyx
Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 190

I find it hard to believe that Onyx is stiffer AND stickier. One has to give...I doubt that people are mindlessly sticking (pardon the pun) to C4 when an objectively better rubber exists.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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