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New Petzl Removable Bolt


Original Post
20 kN · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 1,348

https://www.petzl.com/NL/en/Sport/New/COEUR-PULSE



Looks interesting...

DrRockso · · Red River Gorge, KY · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 341

Saw this on Rope Test Lab, I'm sure coming from Petzl they will be super expensive. $20-$37 a piece for their glue in's. I'll stick with the Climb Tech Legacy bolts and RB's for my purposes. Do you think this is going to be marketed more towards industrial work? What do you see it's climbing application being?

Ken Noyce · · Layton, UT · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 2,122
20 kN wrote:https://www.petzl.com/NL/en/Sport/New/COEUR-PULSE Looks interesting...
I saw these earlier today and though it seems like a kind of cool idea, it looks like the twist lock on the bolt is huge and would make clipping the bolt a pain (especially since the coeur hangers aren't all that big to begin with). I agree with DrRockso, I think I'll stick with the Legacy's for my removable bolts even if they do require a tool (a plus in my opinion).

Big bolt head
Matt Himmelstein · · Orange, California · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 125

I could see a limited application where they would be installed on structures, (buildings, bridges, natural walls...) where climbing is permitted under controlled and limited situations, say for yearly comps.

Jim Titt · · Germany · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 490

Unless there is other information which I can´t see it is only certified as an industrial anchor point.
We already have problems enough with the protruding threads on normal bolts jamming the karabiner and breaking it, the locking mechanism shown would be infinitely worse.
They are going to cost a fortune!
Holes have an amazing ability to become filled with mud, spiders nests, tiny flakes of rock and water. If you leave a drilled and cleaned route more than a day or two you have to clean the holes again before they can be bolted.

They might be useful for actually bolting routes epecially lead bolting but there are already plenty of other solutions available and in other sizes.

Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 2,745

While I've never owned or used them, one limitation of the RBs is that they require a 1/2" or larger hole. At one point they had a 3/8 RB IIRC. If Petzl's new product worked in a 3/8" hole, that would be good. But they're metric, so... BZZZT.

Darren Mabe · · Flagstaff, AZ · Joined Dec 2002 · Points: 3,550

Still needs a drill

Jim Titt · · Germany · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 490
Gunkiemike wrote:While I've never owned or used them, one limitation of the RBs is that they require a 1/2" or larger hole. At one point they had a 3/8 RB IIRC. If Petzl's new product worked in a 3/8" hole, that would be good. But they're metric, so... BZZZT.
I´ve a couple of the old 3/8" RB´s but the wires are sure a bit fragile, they work o.k in a 10mm hole if you´re careful.
Totem got permision to make them when ClimbTech stopped and improved the design a bit but they never went into production. I´ve got a prototype stored away!
20 kN · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 1,348

One concern I see is the bolt itself is 316 SS, but I presume the twist lock mechanism might be aluminum. If so, that's an issue when it comes to corrosion protection. Of course I am just guessing that the lock is aluminum, it might not be. On a note, if the intended function of this bolt is temporary usage, it seems more reasonable that they would not make it out of expensive 316SS and just use carbon steel to cut costs way down.

Jim Titt · · Germany · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 490

Compared with the manufacturing costs changing from stainless to normal steel would be a drop in the ocean!
There´s an 8mm version coming as well for cavers.

20 kN · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 1,348
Jim Titt wrote:Compared with the manufacturing costs changing from stainless to normal steel would be a drop in the ocean! There´s an 8mm version coming as well for cavers.
Well other manufacturers dont seem to have a problem making stainless and carbon steel versions of their bolts at a reasonable cost.
Jim Titt · · Germany · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 490

Looking at a wholesale catalogue for wedge bolts the difference in material costs is probably less than 20c plus the hassle of rolling the bolt flange onto a piece of stainless without damaging the plating.
All on a product which is probably going to retail at nearer $100 than $10, a similar product like an ABS Lock is going to set you back $300 or so.

Pavel Burov · · Russia · Joined May 2013 · Points: 50

There is 8mm option which seems to be more interesting for routes development: petzl.com/NL/en/Sport/New/P…

Nate Doyle · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2016 · Points: 10


M Hanna · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 5

Bump

any word on pricing for these?

Jim Titt · · Germany · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 490

Petzl says available September.

Advertised in Spain for €29.95 ($34.02) for the 8mm one and €35.95 ($40.83) for the 12mm one. Expect US prices to vary!!!!

M Hanna · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 5

Thanks Jim!

M.Hanna

dnoB ekiM · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 2,560

And it's out!  ONLY $65 each!!!    

https://www.petzl.com/US/en/Sport/Anchors/COEUR-PULSE 

Pavel Burov · · Russia · Joined May 2013 · Points: 50
dnoB ekiM wrote:

And it's out!  ONLY $65 each!!!    

It is reasonable priced. BTW, most likely a team needs two or maybe three of them (8mm, for sure) on the first ascent. The same team would need something like dozen cams which way pricier.

dnoB ekiM · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 2,560
Pavel Burov wrote:

It is reasonable priced. BTW, most likely a team needs two or maybe three of them (8mm, for sure) on the first ascent. The same team would need something like dozen cams which way pricier.

Do you see the 8mm one available somewhere?  Petzl USA says there is not an 8mm version.

Pavel Burov · · Russia · Joined May 2013 · Points: 50
dnoB ekiM wrote:

Do you see the 8mm one available somewhere?

Had been using it this summer.

 Petzl USA says there is not an 8mm version.

I do not live in USA.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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