Multipitch sport with 2 ropes


Original Post
Daniel Melnyk · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 0

I'm planning on doing a 6 pitch sport climb in Red Rocks soon (Unimpeachable Groping) and the rappels requires two 60mm ropes. I've only done multipitch with one rope. If I'm not going to use a tag line, how do I effectively manage leading and belaying with 2 ropes?
Ex: clip both while leading? Haul one and then coil them separately when belaying the second from the top?
Any advice helps. Thanks!

Jan Tarculas · · Riverside, Ca · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 808

I did this route before I had a Tag ling and twins/doubles. We just brought two 60m ropes with us. I wouldn't recommend clipping both ropes since that would just be super heavy clipping each quickdraw, especially if you link some pitches like we did. I would recommend either taggling the other rope (clip to back of your harness) while you climb or coil it up like a backpack and have your 2nd bring it up. careful on the raps, a lot of loose rock up there

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 275

Just like Jan said - if you bring two single ropes, just belay with one and clip only that one. A pair of nice skinny twins (belay on both and clip both to each draw) would be easier, but you may not want to buy twins for just that one route.

John Wilder · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Feb 2004 · Points: 1,530

If your tag line is quite small (6-7mm), you can stow it in a pack for the climb. Otherwise, I'd recommend the leader trailing it (as the second trailing is asking to get it caught on something, and having it as a backpack just sucks).

Or, if you're exceptionally crafty, you'll make friends with another party (or better yet, climb it with another party), so you can do the rappels together and save the hassle of a second rope.

FYI- you only need two ropes for the rappels down the water streak- a single 60m will suffice from the notch.

Jan Tarculas · · Riverside, Ca · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 808
John Wilder wrote: Or, if you're exceptionally crafty, you'll make friends with another party (or better yet, climb it with another party), so you can do the rappels together and save the hassle of a second rope. .
or this. Luckily when we did Ginger Cracks, next to UG, we ran into out friends who were 1 pitch up. They waited for us at the rap so we didn't have to bring two ropes up. Now I have a set of doubles/twins and a tag line
Adam Fleming · · Moab, Utah · Joined Jun 2015 · Points: 303

My favorite method is to have the leader tag the second line. When they get to the next anchor, pull up the tagline (this can also be a cue to the belayer to take the leader off belay iff the leader always goes in-direct before pulling the tag line. Cuts down on yelling commands). Stack/coil the tag line and attach it to the anchor if need be. Pancake or otherwise make it feed out nicely for the new leader.

Mike Womack · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Mar 2014 · Points: 1,297

I would either have the second tag a line or bring the second rope in a backpack - whichever is less annoying. It's personal preference though..

Nick Drake · · Newcastle, WA · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 478
John Wilder wrote: Or, if you're exceptionally crafty, you'll make friends with another party (or better yet, climb it with another party), so you can do the rappels together and save the hassle of a second rope.
This is the best answer.
eli poss · · Durango, Co · Joined May 2014 · Points: 456

I've thought about this a lot for multi-pitch sport and I think the best option would be twins (other than sharing a rope with another party). Otherwise a tagline and single will work, and pulling up the tagline will be an easy, simple, bombproof signal that the leader is off belay. It's actually kind of nice on full length pitches where the leader is out of sight/earshot.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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