LOWA boots for vertical ice?


Original Post
amockalypsenow · · San Diego · Joined Nov 2014 · Points: 690

I'm looking at a good deal on some Lowa Mountain Experts or Weisshorns, and was wondering if anybody has experience using automatic crampons on them for vertical ice. They are one of the few boots that are automatic crampon compatible and fit me (Size 14)

Please share your knowledge!!

James Sweeney · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 30

Mock,

Check your PMs

Jim

amockalypsenow · · San Diego · Joined Nov 2014 · Points: 690

Sween', I got nada! Resend por favor!

James Sweeney · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 30

Mock,

Basically it said,

This might be a bit dated, but it could be of some use to you.
bigfootmountainguides.com/2...

Jim

Sunny-D · · SLC, Utah · Joined Aug 2006 · Points: 700

Both of those lowa boots are awesome steep ice boots. I have used both climbing and own the wiesshorn (spelling). I have used this boot a ton mountaineering and it works great for that as well

wisam · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 60

Got a set and love them! Great buy for the money. I've heard some people complain about the high arches with these boots, but it doesn't bother me.

Not quite as warm as say the Nepal EVO's but for me good enough as long as it's in the mid teens or above or i'm moving a fair amount.

amockalypsenow · · San Diego · Joined Nov 2014 · Points: 690

Thanks Jim, that site was useful!

Thanks everybody for their input!!

Interesting that the evo extremes and phantoms are sold in the EU in large sizes. Didn't know that. Of course the shipping time and import duties would be a real drag.

I could get the sportiva SM g2 in 49 sold in the usa, but I like the simplicity and sturdiness of the Lowas, not to mention price.

Now I'm a little torn between the mountain expert and the Weisshorn.

I will be moving to Arctic Norway this year, and plan to do a LOT of ice climbing there. I wonder if I can get away with using the Experts there, where everything is low elevation and sometimes relatively warm thanks to the gulfstream.

Which would be a better first boot?

Is the insulation that much different in the weisshorns?

I've heard they are equally stiff, is this true?

Help me people of the interweb!!!!

(I'm leaning toward the weisshorns.)

amockalypsenow · · San Diego · Joined Nov 2014 · Points: 690
wisam wrote:Got a set and love them! Great buy for the money. I've heard some people complain about the high arches with these boots, but it doesn't bother me. Not quite as warm as say the Nepal EVO's but for me good enough as long as it's in the mid teens or above or i'm moving a fair amount.
Weisshorns or experts?
Tugrul Pacaci · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2014 · Points: 30

I used weisshorn last week for ice climbing for 4 days . I have bought a size 10 but I wear 8,5 normally. I should have gotten a 9 or 9,5. I have heel lifts. Other than that it was a solid boot. The temperatures were around -10 -5 Celsius. My feet were warm even belaying. I would recommend it

Clint White aka Faulted Geologist · · Lawrence, KS · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 158

Weisshorns are great in what I have put mine thru. Durable leather boots are my pref for what I can get to. The ther model is just shorter by memory. I use the G14 crampon with it flawlessly.

I have hundreds of miles in my Lowa Tibet GTX. I wear a 10.5 in all hiking boots and 10.5 was perfect in the Weisshorn.

CMaloney · · Colorado Springs, CO · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 0

Dude I was sweating my decision despite the size 14 need actually limiting my choices. I tried the experts on and ordered the weisshorns online. I've got 4 days and maybe 20+ routes of vertical ice and am so happy/relieved they worked great and fit well. Takes a little fidgeting with the tongue and separate tightening system but I'm confident I'll enjoy these boots a long, long while. My feet run pretty warm and I haven't seen any super cold Temps in them. I do wish I had had a comparison between the two warmth wise before buying but erred on the side of warm. Think the experts are like 7/8 stiffness, the weisshorns full - you can feel this difference. Good luck!

Ben Stabley · · Portland, OR · Joined Sep 2014 · Points: 171

My Mountain Experts do vertical ice just fine. I use Petzl Lynx with them.

amockalypsenow · · San Diego · Joined Nov 2014 · Points: 690

I figured I would need the extra warmth so I bought the Weisshorns, and I can't wait for them to arrive.

FYI, Lowa customer service is great. I asked them about the differences in the models, their reply:

"Hi Cameron,

The Mountain Expert GTX Evo and Weisshorn GTX are similar boots. Both styles have the same 6mm nylon stabilizer which is the stiffest most supportive stabilizer we use and are compatible with automatic crampons. The Mountain Expert GTX Evo uses 200g of PrimaLoft insulation for warmth. The Weisshorn GTX is going to be a slightly taller boot and uses GTX Duratherm insulation. This is a proprietary insulation from Gore-Tex and is our warmest boot aside from our Expedition series boots. The Weisshorn GTX features a double tongue with a removable inner tongue to customize the fit across the top of your feet.

Thank you,

Lowa Customer Service"

Thumbs up from me.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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