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"Renting" Personal Gear/Rack

Original Post
Max T · · Mooresville, NC · Joined Dec 2015 · Points: 65

I don't know how odd of a request this may come across as, but I'd like to pose a question to the Nevada climbing community.
I'll be climbing in Red Rock in March with a group. While there, I'd love to get on some of the classics, but my rack likely won't suffice for my degree of runout comfort. Being a NC climber, I'm pretty well doubled up up to a #1 with a #2 and #3, but I'm lacking in the repetitive #2s and #3s, and I certainly don't have a #4 or #5. I was wondering if someone in the area would be willing to let me "rent" some of their gear to fill out my rack while I'm there. I don't have enough need for any of those larger cams that I can justify buying them for one trip. I'd love to be able to say that I would be happy just meeting up with someone and combining racks, but with the group that I'm going with I'll likely be helping them climb and adding another person into the mix wouldn't work well.
Opinions or suggestions are welcome. I'm trying to get a feel for the possibility.

John Wilder · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Feb 2004 · Points: 1,530

You can climb alot with that rack. Are there any particular routes you're looking at doing? Some definitely require a #4,but alot don't and good nutcraft can reduce the need for doubles in many sizes.

You could also buy a couple big hexes to offset the lack of big gear.

Andrew Yasso · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Sep 2012 · Points: 215

I second John's comments. Most routes don't require doubles of 2's and 3's. I can't think of many classics you would be taking a group on that require a 5 either. The 4 is helpful in some places depending on comfort level. I can probably help you out if need be though, what routes are you looking at?

Thomas Beck · · Las Vegas, Nevada · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 1,040

Before you stress on the deficiencies of your rack try a few easier classics...Birdland, Olive Oil, Johnny Vegas, Peyote Power, Dark Shadows, Armatron...then see if you can manage or you need more cams. None of those absolutely require a #4 or #5. Offset stoppers up to DMM #6 or 7 work well here.

Max T · · Mooresville, NC · Joined Dec 2015 · Points: 65

Triassic Sands is up toward the top of my list, so multiple #2s certainly seem helpful there, and I keep reading about routes I want to do that have a #4 suggestion. Epi and Ginger Cracks are also on the list as well as a few of the other hand cracks in the canyon.

I suppose it's also important to note that I won't get more than maybe a day to go out and climb big stuff in the canyon because of the group I'll be climbing with. I can obviously pick something to get on that won't require this gear, but I thought I'd feel out if it's a possibility first before shutting myself out of some of the routes I'm interested in.

Flava Flav · · Kirkland, Washington · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 665

You can do lots in Red Rock with that rack. there's a guy on craigslist in vegas who is selling a #11 hex and some other random stuff. I bet that if you carry a hammer around and climb epi you might find all those cams on the right day...

Jason Todd · · Cody, WY · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 1,119

Why not just buy another 2 and 3 used then sell them after to recoup most of your cost? Get the crew to pitch in if your short on jingle.

John Wilder · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Feb 2004 · Points: 1,530

Triassic really needs doubles, maybe triples of 2s and 3s. Epi needs a 4 for most people.

Ginger, though, you should be fine with your rack. Crimson would also be fine.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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