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5.10 Verdon VCS

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Arut Jothi · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2016 · Points: 10
5.10 Verdon VCS

5.10 Verdon VCS

This question is for those who are using 5.10 Verdon VCS. I really like these shoes except for one problem - It tore right above the toe box on my right shoe. I got these from REI about 6 months back. Less than 2 month into climbing (mostly indoor about 2 days a week), it tore right about the toe box on my right side shoe. So, I exchanged it for a new ones at REI about 3 months back and less than 3 weeks into climbing, it tore at the same spot. See attached pictures...

Has anyone had this problem? I've considered the possiblity of maybe I was using more of my right foot. But, NO, I haven't. I use both my feet equally and I've just been climbing fairly decent grades (v4 and below on bouldering/ 5.11 and below on top ropes) inside a climbing gym mostly 2 days a week not more than an hour or 2. So I doubt it would be a mistake or incorrect use by me.
rgold · · Poughkeepsie, NY · Joined Feb 2008 · Points: 525

I've got a pair, used indoors and outdoors since the Fall, no problems.

Justin Barrett · · Russellville, AR · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 85

It looks like you're dragging your toe while you climb. When you drag your toe, it will cause unnecessary wear on the toe cap. Gym walls are particularly rough on climbing shoes, and constant rubbing from toe drags does eat up shoes.

I can't say for certain, but is the leather from the shoe under the rand split? If so, you might of just gone through a second pair

slc.underscore.dan · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 0

That's not a shoe problem, that's a technique problem.

Arut Jothi · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2016 · Points: 10

@Justin Barrett
Yes, the leather just above the toe box is split open (like about less than a quarter inch)...

I've considered that possibility but I've not really been climbing too much and this second pair tore within 3 weeks...that would be my 5th or 6th day of climbing on those shoes...And I climbed less than 2 hours on all these days...I've used Evolv Defy and Shaman over the last 2 years since I started climbing and didn't have this problem...Even if I had one bad technique using my right foot, it doesn't seem right for me that the shoe would tear up on the 6th day of my climbing...

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 190

That does look like toe dragging. A lot of more technical/aggressive shoes have thinner rubber in the toes for increased sensitivity. The drawback is they tend to wear through much faster and require more precise technique, especially if there's any downturn in the toe. That part of the shoe shouldn't really be getting any wear at all unless you're doing some serious toe hooking. The LS Miuras are a classic culprit...I've seen toes blow out in 3 months before. 5.10 usually doesn't have this problem (I've used Moccasyms, Anasazi Pinks and HiAngles and none have shown any signs of wear there), but it could be the design of the Verdon...I remember it being more "Sportivay". Evolv Defys are flat lasted and soft, and Shamans have very thick rubber, which may account for why you didn't have this problem before.

Arut Jothi · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2016 · Points: 10

I haven't really done any serious toe hooking on these shoes...too bad...I like everything about this shoe except for this one annoying thing...I guess I will have to be more aware of toe dragging while climbing going forward, although I doubt I do any toe dragging at all...

If the shoe skin above the toe box area is so sensitive, then that essentially looks like a blocker from doing some serious toe hooking and drop knees...

Thanks for the responses...:)

rgold · · Poughkeepsie, NY · Joined Feb 2008 · Points: 525

Arut, there's a macabre joke that says that losing one parent is a tragedy, but losing two is beginning to look like carelessness.

When you get the same failure in the same side at the same spot twice, it is time to look inwards (or perhaps more effectively, downwards).

The shape of the Verdon toe is unique. It may be that it just happens to correspond with a bad habit that doesn't have such an explicit repeatable effect with other shoes.

Arut Jothi · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2016 · Points: 10

@rgold: I don't disagree with you but I had given it a thought and may be I was toe dragging which I'm not sure about now :). How much of toe dragging can someone do in 3 weeks (essentially six moderate 2 hour sessions of indoor climbing) for this to happen on a new pair of shoes? :)

May be it is my bad technique that I need to be more watchful going forward :)

Discussions in this forum certainly helps narrowing down towards the real problem :)

Arut Jothi · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2016 · Points: 10

@greg24 I love everything about this shoe except for this one problem. It fits perfect on me, has velcro enclosures and hold up pretty good on tiny foot smears. Unlike other shoes, the toe box on this shoe is away from the center and hence, doesn't really cause any bunions or contribute much to climber foot. At the least, I feel that way...I'm very much tempted to give this shoe another chance and watch out for any bad technique that I might be having...Its better to get rid of the bad technique than getting rid of the shoes...:)

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 190

Yeah. I would say the fact that others have used the shoe and not had problems should be telling. Toe dragging is hard to avoid and really easy to do without realizing it. The classic beginner mistake is to skate your feet up the wall as you move to a higher hold, and even experienced people will occasionally do this when on a cruxy move, but there are many other forms that are only really problematic if you're climbing in a gym. Some examples:

-When you put your foot on a small hold/jib, does your toe box touch the wall? One good technique I've seen is to smear the wall above a small jib rather than placing the toe directly on the hold, similar to smedging. This creates a really secure foot placement and concentrates the wear to the bottom of the sole, preventing the kinds of issues you're having.
-what do you do when lowering? I've often caught myself kicking the wall on my way down with the tips of my feet, which can cause wear to that area. I try to consciously lift my toes to kick off from the soles instead and haven't had issues with wear in a long time.

Arut Jothi · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2016 · Points: 10

@Tedpinson: I definitely do sometimes kick against the toes while lowering but not always. As far as smearing and smedging goes, I think my foot placement is pretty decent unless the foot hold is really bad or I have not really paid too much attention to this particular technique in difficult crux moves.

Nick Stephenson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2016 · Points: 0

I have this same shoe and started climbing in September 2016 with it. I'm New to climbing and am definitely working on technique still. Mid February 2017, I sent mine in to get resold for a hole that wore through about the same place as yours.I was told that I would go through shoes a bit quicker until I get my foot placement technique down.
I love this shoes fit and the sensitivity I feel through it on the wall. I've used some rentals a handfull of times at the gym and was not as confident in them as I was with my verdons.I hope this helps a little.

Arut Jothi · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2016 · Points: 10


Thanks...In my case, I was able to exchange it for a pair of new verdons at the seller...

While, I absolutely love this shoe and agree that I have few bad techniques (which I'm try to avoid), the leather in the upper portion definitely doesn't seem to be robust enough...I had one other person in my gym report the same problem... I had many more bad techniques a year ago and the shoes that I used at that time did not have this problem... That being said, I definitely take this as opportunity to identify and work over bad techniques...

Paul MG · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 0

I have these shoes and I can say that after using them for a few months of solid climbing it isn't the shoes. Also toe hooking and knees drops don't use rubber on the end of your toes.
For indoor climbing I would suggest a shoe with more rubber such as the Shamens you had before.
One tip to check for toe dragging is to cover the end of the shoe with chalk before you climb, and if you see patches of black after one climb you are dragging.
On the bright side you get better by practicing your weaknesses, so try traversing with 'silent' feet and you will go through far less shoe rubber. Good luck.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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