Best guide book for sport climbs in Joshua tree?


Original Post
Chris Clark · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2016 · Points: 0

Anybody have some advice on which guide book would be best to have for sport climbing at Joshua tree? Any advice on which areas that have bolted climbs on the newer side would be great too. Thanks

R. Moran · · Moab , UT · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 140

https://www.mountainproject.com/v/new-jack-city/105865045
This place may be a little more your speed.

Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65
C Clark wrote:Anybody have some advice on which guide book would be best to have for sport climbing at Joshua tree? Any advice on which areas that have bolted climbs on the newer side would be great too. Thanks
J-Tree? Sport climbs?
Chris Owen · · Big Bear Lake · Joined Jan 2002 · Points: 10,121
C Miller · · CA · Joined Jan 2002 · Points: 57,050

There is a link to actual sport climbs on the main Joshua Tree page about halfway down and just above "Current Weather" - mountainproject.com/v/joshu....

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 275

Don't confuse "sport climbs" for "bolted climbs." Like Tuolumne Meadows, the bolts can be far apart.

Zachary Hollifield · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2016 · Points: 0

+1 for New Jack. Close to Jtree but almost exclusively sport routes on high quality metamorphic rock

Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65
C Miller wrote:There is a link to actual sport climbs on the main Joshua Tree page about halfway down and just above "Current Weather" - mountainproject.com/v/joshu....
Wow. Certainly more than I thought and definitely much more than I remember (although admittedly it's been quite some time since I've climbed there).
AndrewArroz · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 10
C Clark wrote:Anybody have some advice on which guide book would be best to have for sport climbing at Joshua tree? Any advice on which areas that have bolted climbs on the newer side would be great too. Thanks
Best book in my opinion would be the Robert Miramontes one. But there really AREN'T many actual sport climbs in J-Tree. There are lots of bolted routes. But they're really run out (like 20+ feet) compared to your normal "sport" bolting. And many will also require placing gear. If you're adamant about not "trad" climbing then J-Tree might not be the best destination.
Chris Clark · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2016 · Points: 0

Thanks for all the replies. The j tree route page says there's 569 "sport climbs", do you know if that's actually mostly spread out bolted / " run out routes" that will require trad gear?

steverett · · San Diego, CA · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 105
C Clark wrote:Thanks for all the replies. The j tree route page says there's 569 "sport climbs", do you know if that's actually mostly spread out bolted / " run out routes" that will require trad gear?
No, those are typically listed on MP and in the guidebook as trad routes (e.g. Stichter Quits, Walk on the Wild Side). However the sport areas tend to be spread out, or mixed in among the trad routes.

I also would suggest New Jack City over JTree for sport (or once it warms up, Alabama Hills or Holcomb Valley).
AndrewArroz · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 10
C Clark wrote:Thanks for all the replies. The j tree route page says there's 569 "sport climbs", do you know if that's actually mostly spread out bolted / " run out routes" that will require trad gear?
Let me give you some examples from the guidebook I recommended. Indian Cove area, which has a fairly high concentration of pure Sport routes compared to the rest of J-Tree.

McStain 5.8 SPORT climb. 55 feet. THREE bolts.

GoodBye Mr. Bond: 5.10c. 75 feet. FOUR bolts.

There are others that aren't quite as run out. Typically the overhanging routes like Inferno. 5.12. 45 feet with 5 bolts.

It's not impossible to find some routes you can do with nothing but a rack of draws. But it's not the ideal J-Tree experience by any means.

Out of curiosity, is it just that you've never trad climbed before or is there another reason to not give it a go?
Chris Clark · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2016 · Points: 0

Me an the person I'm going with have never trad climbed or own any trad gear. Looking at spending some at new jack city based on all the responses. Still gonna check out j tree though. If only to hike an camp an even top rope a bit.

AndrewArroz · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 10

Can't recommend it enough. J-Tree is one of the most spectacular places.

I've never been to NJC but hear great things from people who go there regularly.

steverett · · San Diego, CA · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 105
C Clark wrote:Me an the person I'm going with have never trad climbed or own any trad gear. Looking at spending some at new jack city based on all the responses. Still gonna check out j tree though. If only to hike an camp an even top rope a bit.
If you like to boulder, there is also plenty of bouldering in JTree.
steverett · · San Diego, CA · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 105
AndrewArroz wrote: McStain 5.8 SPORT climb. 55 feet. THREE bolts. GoodBye Mr. Bond: 5.10c. 75 feet. FOUR bolts. There are others that aren't quite as run out. Typically the overhanging routes like Inferno. 5.12. 45 feet with 5 bolts. It's not impossible to find some routes you can do with nothing but a rack of draws. But it's not the ideal J-Tree experience by any means.
There are moderates that are more like standard sport climbs with bolts every 10' or so (Papa Woolsey, Boulderado, most of Siberia), but for the most part they're spread out enough that you'd be driving or walking half the time if you tried to spend the whole trip sport climbing.

Siberia has enough to keep you busy for a day or two:

https://www.mountainproject.com/v/siberia/105800933
Jeff Luton · · Ventucky Ca · Joined Aug 2016 · Points: 0

+1 on Alabama hills for sport. It's a choss pile in a lot of places, but it's a choss pile you can love

Warrior · · Rock City, GA · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 310
Jeremy in Inyokern · · Inyokern · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 73

Go to j tree. Get scared. Have fun.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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