Mountain Project Logo

advanced rock climbing book


Original Post
neils · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2016 · Points: 20

Has anyone read this?

mountaineersbooks.org/Advan…

It is pretty new. I got the kindle version and so far I find it pretty interesting. Let me say I am NOT an advanced rock climber, yet but I think I am conservative and intelligent enough to not run out and try something stupid. I am perfectly content using my conservative standard methods and getting better at my level. Nevertheless I think there is good stuff in it and an interesting read.

I was curious what more advanced folks thought. I haven't found any reviews thus far.

Abdullah Mourad · · Elk Grove, CA · Joined Apr 2016 · Points: 0

relevant thread regarding specific content in that book - mountainproject.com/v/euro-…

Rich Farnham · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2002 · Points: 278

I've read it and highly recommend it!

Full disclosure - Topher is a friend and climbing partner. While that might make me a biased reviewer, it is also why I was so excited about this book. I've had the advantage of learning so much from climbing with him, and wanted a way my friends could get the same lessons I have. (I've already given 3 friends a copy!) I think he did an excellent job compiling these lessons into a well written book with plenty of useful photos and illustrations that help convey the information.

I don't have my copy handy, so I can't comment in too much detail at the moment. But I think there is a passage on the back cover, or perhaps in the introduction, that explains that it is an instructional book for climbers that already know how to climb. That sounds strange at first, but is actually a valid description.

As you get to hard 5.11 and beyond, you may not always have holds where you want them, and you may not be able to stop and place gear in the crux. There is good information about how to keep yourself safe, while progessing beyond the basic levels of climbing that allow frequent solid protection to be placed from reasonable stances. There are also good tips about climbing movement and techniques that are more relevant to harder climbing (11+ on up) than many basic books discuss. He also spends a lot of time discussing how to move fast on longer climbs.

I think the people that will find it most useful are:
- trad climbers that are stuck at hard 5.10, or low-to-mid 5.11, that are trying to break through that plateau
- trad climbers at any grade who are looking to take on longer routes and want to keep it safe while moving a lot faster

There is plenty in the book for sport climbers as well, i.e. the movement section I mentioned above. I also recall a section about working a project, and another about training. Again without the book handy, I can't be too specific, but it's 300+ pages, and covers a broad range of advanced skills. It could also be that the description above is where I was when I started climbing with Topher, so I know his coaching will really help that group. I can't speak to other groups as well.

As to the discussion of the Euro-death knot that "atmourad" linked to above, I think that was a little unfortunate. Topher has explained well on that forum, and on his blog, the reason he felt he needed to get the word out about a "better alternative" to the euro death knot, and the reason he has since softened his stance on the issue. That topic is such a can of worms, and sparks strong feelings from many sides of the discussion. I think the whole thing was a distraction from a great book, and I hope it doesn't cause anyone to question the validity of the rest of the book. The list of people that were involved in the book is a who's who of hard climbing in the last 20 years. The book is a great way to learn from them if you aren't one of the lucky few that gets to go out climbing with them.

stolo · · Shelby, NC · Joined Sep 2016 · Points: 115

This is a great book, also recommend it. Covers a lot of content other books do not. Great for the experienced climber.

I was actually reading it before I picked up my phone to check MP before my plane takes off. OK, now back to the book!

neils · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2016 · Points: 20

thanks. I've liked it so far and wanted another opinion. I have read the intro and first couple of chapters and have found it informative. In many ways it is out of my league but I am aware of that and there is still much info I am finding interesting. I suspect I will read it more than once as i progress.

Collin Holt · · Golden, CO · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 40

Highly recommended... Picked up a lot of new tricks.

Abdullah Mourad · · Elk Grove, CA · Joined Apr 2016 · Points: 0
Rich Farnham wrote:As to the discussion of the Euro-death knot that "atmourad" linked to above, I think that was a little unfortunate. Topher has explained well on that forum, and on his blog, the reason he felt he needed to get the word out about a "better alternative" to the euro death knot, and the reason he has since softened his stance on the issue. That topic is such a can of worms, and sparks strong feelings from many sides of the discussion. I think the whole thing was a distraction from a great book, and I hope it doesn't cause anyone to question the validity of the rest of the book. The list of people that were involved in the book is a who's who of hard climbing in the last 20 years. The book is a great way to learn from them if you aren't one of the lucky few that gets to go out climbing with them.
To be clear I didn't share that as a criticism of his book. I think he handled the whole situation very well and thoroughly appreciate him clarifying it. I shared it as relevant additional info, since someone who purchased the book may not have known about the forum post/ensuing discussion/blog post.
neils · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2016 · Points: 20

Yes it was good to see that thread and how Topher communicated and handled himself. IMO it was professional and credible. Good stuff. I've read the basic skills book he did with Craig Lueben and now this one. Both are good.

Warrior · · Rock City, GA · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 310

Topher has probably forgotten more tips and tricks than most of us will ever know...at least there's some down on paper here. Rec'd...

David Coley · · UK · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 70

I've always found this book rather good, and at $8 nice and cheap:

amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss…;field-keywords=coley+and+kirkpatrick

:)

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Post a Reply

Log In to Reply