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Blind Assumption/Total Abandon - How come?

Original Post
CMaloney · · Colorado Springs, CO · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 0

Mixed climbing noob question:

It seems Blind Assumption and it's neighbor Total Abandon don't get many winter ascents. Is this because they are A) not "in" B) the toll road access is too limited C) it's too cold or D) something else?

Just curious. Thanks!

CarlsbadCO · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2016 · Points: 0

correct - they are fall climbs formed by melt/freeze cycles with blown in snow above providing the water source. There has not been a melt cycle at 13K in over 2 months = the routes are not in (out).

I've done both routes several times and went up Total Abandon this fall - and per typical front range conditions this fall/early season - it was not in good. The party after us [following weekend I believe] knocked a block down that chopped their rope and had death potential. The route was not in 'good' due to lack of ice and consolidated conditions

CMaloney · · Colorado Springs, CO · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 0

Thank you!

Follow up question - what makes these routes go "out" during the transition from fall to winter? Are they just chopped up from parties that climbed in the autumn and the ice never went through another thaw/freeze or what? The ice is still there I presume?


Christian Mason · · Westminster CO · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 158

It's also worth noting that the approach to these climbs involves a slope with avy risk over a big drop.

Ice will sublimate during periods of extended cold as well. The freeze-thaw cycle is good for forming ice. Deep cold lock up the water that would otherwise be flowing and renewing the ice, and the slow sublimation reduces the ice over time.

CMaloney · · Colorado Springs, CO · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 0

I really had no idea. So interesting. Thank you!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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