Best 5.10 sport route in new mexico


Original Post
Richard Andrew Heying · · Albuquerque, New Mexico · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 25

Any good ones that are worth trying and what makes it special than any other 5.10

Gray Vogel · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 0

There are certainly more experienced than I when it comes to climbing in NM, but I'll suggest a few. Obviously the two listed as classic climbs on the NM page, Pumping Huecos in Las Conchas and Cobble Wobble in El Rito, are good. Pumping is really fun and steep with cool holds, hard for 5.10. Cobble is good for El Rito. Little Viking is a really cool tall tower-ish climb on Juno Tower in the Jemez near Las Conchas. I can speak to the quality of climbing on Grape Ape in Diablo near Santa Fe as well and it looks like there are some other good 5.10s there too. That should be a good, quick overview of Northern NM.

Craig Childre · · Lubbock, Texas · Joined Aug 2006 · Points: 4,945

You get south. Last Chance, has a few everyone should check out. Gustnado at 10d is fantastic. Fiddler on the Roof is another unique line, though the upper finger crack is more 11ish. Ericka on Toast is likely the best 10a in the canyon.

Sitting Bull is a nearby classic spot. You'll find Wounded Knee a stout 10a. Bracketed by Firewater 10b, and Six Little Indians 10c. These are the warm up routes!!! :)

Back over at the Enchanted Tower, you'll find the biggest holds you'll fall off of. Hit Freddie Prince Jr at 10a. I'd also recommend Jeremy Fisher at 10c/d. Top it off with Tarred and Feathered a quality 10c.

One final epic route... sort of Hueco Tanks (It's Texas but just barely), Sea of Holes a 350' 10a. 4 bolts per pitch, can make you question it's sportiness, know it's a jug haul the whole way. I like to rope climb the morning, and then boulder after lunch, as my skin can't handle the punishment the Tanks delivers.

I usually plug gear when I go North areas, others can speak for their spots.

highaltitudeflatulentexpulsion · · Colorado · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 0

The 190' 5.10's at Diablo are mostly excellent.

Owen Summerscales · · Los Alamos, NM · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 1,048

Definitely would agree on Sitting Bull Falls, there are three stellar 5.10s all next to each other. Awesome rock, cool moves using undercling jugs and weird limestone "drip"/curtain features, and the bees are gone now! (well, they're on the other wall...)

Fiddler on the Roof ain't no 5.10...

Gray's suggestions are pretty much the standard for northern NM. Pumping Huecos is probably the best, pretty steep hueco jugs, very much like the Enchanted Tower. And as Craig said, lots of good - albeit not amazing - 5.10s at the Tower. I would add Forest (Las Conchas) as a favorite of mine, a bit sandbagged at 10b, but still in the 5.10 range. Incredible quasi-tufa pinches with a pumpy steep finish. If it was a little longer it'd be my fave 5.10 in the state.

the schmuck · · Albuquerque, NM · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 110

Grape Ape at Diablo, The Dig at The Tunnel. Maybe Cobble Wobble and Pumping Huecos. Holly Wall at White Rock is also pretty decent at 10-, but pretty short.

cyclestupor · · Woodland Park, Colorado · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 68

Has anyone been here...
https://www.mountainproject.com/v/caballo-lake/106527519

I've never been, but the photos look awesome, and lots of highly rated routes in the 5.10-5.11 range (maybe one of them is the "best in NM").

the schmuck · · Albuquerque, NM · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 110

It is quite good. You should go. Remote with lots of potential.

Bill M · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined Jun 2010 · Points: 101

Heat Seeker at Diablo is 5.11-, but you can avoid the .11- moves lower down by climbing to the left a little (if my memory serves me correct.) It is a fantastic climb.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Post a Reply

Log In to Reply