Clear Creek Mixed


Original Post
John Alcorn · · Boulder, CO · Joined Sep 2014 · Points: 375

Any know the name/grade/FA of this dry tooling line? Climber's left of Red Stripe/Mickey's Big Mouth in CCC. We hopped on it for a bit yesterday. Super fun with opportunity for a stein pull + huge reach and figure 4 to get past the blank overhanging section.

rock near red stripe

Craghead · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 30

Hey John,

I eyeball that route every time I climb at Mickey's but have never climbed it because it always looked a bit out of my league. Did you lead it on gear or set up a TR? I don't remember it having any bolts. I would be curious what you thought of it and if you plan on adding it to the database. No clue on the FA.

John Alcorn · · Boulder, CO · Joined Sep 2014 · Points: 375

There are no bolts. Some tat around the tree up top indicates that there's been activity on this route or something nearby in the recent past. Since it is fairly chossy, we just top roped it. Feels about like M5-6 based on my very limited experience climbing mixed. My beta was to lock in a stein pull, reach really far to a small ledge past the overhang, figure 4, and pull good holds to the top. SUPER fun. The overhanging section is pretty much completely void of anything to front point IMO. I would like to try it on lead now. Gear looks decent, less than ideal in spots. A fixed pin would be nice to have at the crux (pulling past the blank overhang). Would that be kosher?

There are obviously several different lines here. One in our group went far right and bypassed the blank overhanging section. There's also some fun looking stuff to the left. I think after a little cleaning/gardening it could be a pretty decent route.

Craghead · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 30

Sounds like a fun little dry tooling line to practice mixed technique. I will have to give it a shot next time I climb there, knowing that I can at least set up a TR and run a lap on it that way. I have found at least one old pin on Red Stripe/Mickey's and CCC is generally a place that is ok with bolts and the occasional pin, so I don't think it would be an issue, that is, unless the FA objects.

Parker Wrozek · · Denver, CO · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 63

I can't remember where it turns from Jeffco to the Clear Creek County but remember Jeffco has a bolt approval process (I think it would be the same for a fixed pin).

John Alcorn · · Boulder, CO · Joined Sep 2014 · Points: 375

thanks for the feedback guys. the route is in jefferson county. I took a look at the bolting guidelines. doesn't say anything about fixed pins so I shot them an email. i'm guessing the same fixed hardware application applies though.

jleining · · CO · Joined Apr 2007 · Points: 8
Parker Wrozek wrote:I can't remember where it turns from Jeffco to the Clear Creek County but remember Jeffco has a bolt approval process (I think it would be the same for a fixed pin).
everything below the junction of Hwy 6 and hwy 119 is in Jeffco. hwy 119 is in Gilpin County. and Hwy 6 above 119 is in Clear Creek County
Sean McAuley · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 10

I may be mistaken, but I'm pretty sure Jeffco Open Space operates the entire Clear Creek open space area (regardless of County lines). The bolt restrictions are for the entire creek.

Jay Eggleston · · Denver · Joined Feb 2003 · Points: 14,179
Sean McAuley wrote:I may be mistaken, but I'm pretty sure Jeffco Open Space operates the entire Clear Creek open space area (regardless of County lines). The bolt restrictions are for the entire creek.
No, you can still bolt without a approval process in Clear Creek County, just not Jeffco.
John Alcorn · · Boulder, CO · Joined Sep 2014 · Points: 375

Got on the route over the weekend for a bit. Managed to get up it without hanging on TR. Thinking about giving it a shot on lead.

If anyone has been on the route please let me know!

Brian dry tooling.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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