Limestone Multipitch for rainy Red Rocks


Original Post
Flavaflav · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 385

As a local(who is leaving soon) the only thing that grinds my gears more than rain at RR is people who climb after it rains. I have always thought it would be nice to have some lines to climb on limestone for those with the fortitude to climb on a different rock type and not go home from a climbing trip empty-handed. Andrew Fulton climbed many of the limestone routes years ago, and while the first one I did (Lake Mead Buttress) probably needs a line of bolts for most of it(and a crowbar).I had checked to see if LMB was inside the park boundaries, and its not. I didn't find one of his pitons, so I am guessing it would be partly ok to bolt the line. The route I did earlier this month I felt was enjoyable enough to do again and recommend to others.

Here is Andrew Fulton's listing of his routes climbed on limestone: rockclimbing.com/routes/Nor...

Another list and description by Andrew: mountainproject.com/v/route...

Given his description of Turtlehead, I'd like to give that one a go if anyone is interested, or the Sentinel above Willow Springs. I think these routes should be at least listed and described on MP if anyone is willing to go with me to check them out. Hopefully with some more information about these routes, some might be less inclined to crank on wet sandstone and enjoy a different experience.

Kyle Willis

A lot of movement, but the climbing was fun and the views great: mountainproject.com/v/integ...

BigB · · Red Rock, NV · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 5

Kyle,
I believe both Dan and Andrew still live here in the valley. You can probably get a hold of Dan through DRS. Those cliffs do look awesome and I agree with you that some cool mp routes up those formations would be a nice addition for rainy weather

DesertDan · · Arvada, Co · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 2,883

Hey now Flavaflav, before putting bolts in up there let's get together and make sure you'd be installing them on an independent line. When Andrew and I climbed these routes it was done intentionally without bolts. I would be bummed, and I'm sure Andrew would too, if bolts were added to any of the climbs we've done. Besides, since you already completed the line, and did so without bolts, you've shown that it doesn't need any. Why bother retrobolting your own route that you feel is enjoyable to recommend to others when you could be putting up a new one? The right side of Lake Mead Buttress is wide open with acres of steeper, cleaner, dark grey rock. I've always thought that would be a great place to put up really fun mixed and sport lines up to about 300' tall. Beyond that the wall lays back and is full of loose rock.

I started writing the La Madre climbs up couple of weeks ago to post on MP but currently I'm distance challenged on getting pictures. If anyone has some photos of the big south facing cliffs of the La Madre Range they'd like to share (credit will be applied) I'd be happy to doctor them up with lines and share the information I have. Just email them to me in the largest size.

Flavaflav · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 385

Dan,

I would certainly want to ascertain that we did an independent line before bolting. I had the intention of sending you the pictures of the faces for all the routes, except there seems to be all this white stuff in the way....

I originally went out to find routes to give to the community in lieu of climbing on wet sandstone. Royal and I didn't even know LMB had been climbed when we did it! The one 200 ft pitch out of 4 pitches was x rated, and It was pretty terrifying. To be enjoyed by the masses and leave wet stone alone, it would need bolts. If I was gonna go up there with a hand drill and two-three days of drilling, I'd like to be sure they are happy, appreciated bolts.

Kyle

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Post a Reply

Log In to Reply