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Replacing carabiners


Original Post
germsauce Epstein · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2010 · Points: 55

I have a number of draws that are coming up on 15 years old. I'd like to upgrade at least the dog bones but is there any reason to think I should replace the carabiners? ( no major drops and the wear is obvious but not creating any deep grooves on the baskets yet)

Rob Warden...Space Lizard · · Between Zion, Vegas, LA, an… · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 115

no reason to replace the biners if they are not grooved out

Scott McMahon · · Boulder, CO · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 1,425
Rob Warden...Space Lizard wrote:no reason to replace the biners if they are not grooved out
Yep. End of story, unless you want to go light weight. :o)
Yury · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2014 · Points: 0

How do you define "grooved out"?
Is this about a change of color to white or else?

Its Isaac · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2016 · Points: 0

If you replace both the dogbones and the biners are they still the same draws?

amarius · · Nowhere, OK · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 20
Yury wrote:How do you define "grooved out"? Is this about a change of color to white or else?
Black Diamond Quality Control Lab has an excellent write-up
diepj · · PDX · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 0

Good advice from BD for sure but I do take issue with their test. When a biner has a groove worn in it from rope wear the edges are not sharp. The one they tested was drilled out and the edge wasn't rounded at all.

Of course if I don't keep anything that is even close to that worn nor would I recommend it!

Kevin Mokracek · · Burbank · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 200

Did BD say they drilled it out?? Most worn biners are worn with sharp edges not nice rounded edges.

Kristian Solem · · Monrovia, CA · Joined Apr 2004 · Points: 355

BD has a QC lab? You wouldn't know it based on the number of critical safety recalls they've had in the last couple of years.

Rob Warden...Space Lizard · · Between Zion, Vegas, LA, an… · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 115

They can get that sharp on certain styles or frames.

Ancent · · Reno, NV · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 42

Only reason to replace is if you want lighter or better designed carabiners. With the price of new or used 'biners, there's no reason to have a rack of old clunkers. Or, replace if the action is sticky on the gate, and its hard to clip or the gate opens (obviously not a good thing).

diepj · · PDX · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 0

It doesn't say they drilled it out but take a look at the pic of the one they tested. It looks like they ran a 5/8" bit straight across it. If it was worn by a rope it would have a rounded profile.

Yes, depending on the biner cross section rope wear can cause a sharp edge but not the case with their test.

End of the day I'm not advocating keeping something in use which shows anywhere near that amount of wear. I just don't like bogus science being used to back up a point, even if it is the right point.

Alex Bedenbaugh · · Atlanta, GA · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 0
Kristian Solem wrote:BD has a QC lab? You wouldn't know it based on the number of critical safety recalls they've had in the last couple of years.
From what I've heard from the guy that runs the QC lab blog, it's extremely unusual and they've had VERY FEW actual returns based on their voluntary recalls.
apoet · · AZ · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 193
Kristian Solem wrote:BD has a QC lab? You wouldn't know it based on the number of critical safety recalls they've had in the last couple of years.
You would be surprised how many similar recalls happen in commercial aerospace. It is all about improvement.
Kevin Mokracek · · Burbank · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 200

There was an Enormocast episode a few months back talking about this exact topic with the QC guy from BD. Give it a listen.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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