How to reconcile differences with Bouldering friends


Original Post
Vas Carmicheal · · Mexican Hat, UT · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 5

Look, we all started from the same place, our Midwest university climbing club as sporto gumby chuffers. I knew very early on that our group was of a much finer pedigree than most of the other midwest locals, we were taught the ways by a group of American Gentlemen who ventured west and learned the ways of old and passed on the knowledge in hopes that we would one day become well rounded American Gentlemen ourselves. They taught us to climb the cracks in the parking garages, how to run the Pakistani death loop, and that the purest form of climbing was the On Sight. However, we were deceived, a separate faction festered in the darkness, pebble wrestlers - the street urchins of the climbing.

Now look, time has passed, I vowed to finally drink the unicorns blood, I would start "training" I myself have become a student of the prophets Mike Muhammad Anderson and Mark Emmanuel Anderson, I have absorbed the readings of the lesser deities such as Kris Elijah Hampton and even procured the ancient texts of Eric Ismael Hörst. I have kept to my regiments and have found that for every hangboard cycle I am gaining 1/3 of a letter grade as the prophets have promised.

So you see I have attempted to assimilate with these new street urchins, however I am still at a loss for why they refuse to indulge in such refined activities as REALLY GOING FOR IT on a nice On Sight, nice technical outings on vertical walls, or of course climping walls in a push.

All I'm saying is, can you actually uninronically imagine a rock climb that starts by first sitting down?

Michael Schneider · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 735
Vas Carmicheal wrote:Look, we all started from the same place, our Midwest university climbing club as sporto gumby chuffers. I knew very early on that our group was of a much finer pedigree than most of the other midwest locals, we were taught the ways by a group of American Gentlemen who ventured west and learned the ways of old and passed on the knowledge in hopes that we would one day become well rounded American Gentlemen ourselves. They taught us to climb the cracks in the parking garages, how to run the Pakistani death loop, and that the purest form of climbing was the On Sight. However, we were deceived, a separate faction festered in the darkness, pebble wrestlers - the street urchins of the climbing. Now look, time has passed, I vowed to finally drink the unicorns blood, I would start "training" I myself have become a student of the prophets Mike Muhammad Anderson and Mark Emmanuel Anderson, I have absorbed the readings of the lesser deities such as Kris Elijah Hampton and even procured the ancient texts of Eric Ismael Hörst. I have kept to my regiments and have found that for every hangboard cycle I am gaining 1/3 of a letter grade as the prophets have promised. So you see I have attempted to assimilate with these new street urchins, however I am still at a loss for why they refuse to indulge in such refined activities as REALLY GOING FOR IT on a nice On Sight, nice technical outings on vertical walls, or of course climping walls in a push. All I'm saying is, can you actually uninronically imagine a rock climb that starts by first sitting down?
when Small Rocks, are all that is on the menu, one must try to make the most of the meal. Starting from lying or sitting position, Climbing ground up, is harder, from the moment you engage your core muscles the clock is running, the pump you can achieve trying to climb inches, is Un-deniably excellent training that is absorbing.
It is also easy ( safe?) to practice alone.
Hmm?
Un- ironically, the hardest moves are off the padz,
The game is all the same.
Ho yeah !
The changes, from top roping to exclusively using Pads, extended, the ( old school )rules we play by
T Roper · · DC,VA,NM,UT,CT,MA · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 860
Vas Carmicheal wrote:pebble wrestlers - the street urchins of the climbing
LMAO, its been a while since it was brought up but a worthwhile subject to discuss and bash occasionally.

I love bouldering occasionally. Its what got me over the 5.9 hump and into much harder routes BITD. Its fun by yourself or with a good group of people. Obviously it used to be only 1 in a 100 people truly focused on bouldering, most just used it for training and something to do for an hour or two after work. Now its become its own sport where people travel across the planet to work one "proj" , to each their own I guess, I still find it hard to not make fun of it.

I think one can equate it to the millennial generations desire for instant gratification, FAs(whatever that means on a pebble) and Youtube.

If there was no easy way to post videos and FAs on pebbles would it be nearly as popular?
DanielHart · · Carpinteria ca · Joined Dec 2016 · Points: 5

I feel exactly the same way. I began participating when I saw the gains newbies were having. The pads do rob a bit from what it once was. I can't help but be a hypocrite though. One of the first comps I ever attended the mortal combat horse pens 40 event in 2000 I began up a highball that really appealed to me, my buddy and I sat our pads out in the area that looked most critical, no ropes or gear to mess with I was totally focused for some unknown reason others came over to witness my attempt I greased on the top out started falling and that subliminal oh shit chant my mind goes through when I know it's going to be bad a forever second later I was caught softly by a trillion pads onlookers had deposited beneath. Don't think I've ever been so pleasantly surprised. There is certainly appeal in ropeles climbing with so little consequence for failure.

Brian · · North Kingstown, RI · Joined Sep 2001 · Points: 650

What?! You find this silly?

Bouldering.

aaron hope · · Walnut Creek, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 295
Vas Carmicheal wrote: can you actually uninronically imagine a rock climb that starts by first sitting down?
Hilarious!
Spencer Scott · · Kansas City, MO · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 129

Bouldering outside is SKETCH

That is why I stick to my yearly training regime of top roping Crimp Scampi (5.10d) at HCR once a year

John Ryan · · Poncha Springs, CO · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 165

Awesome, creative, and funny way to hate on bouldering. I'm right there with ya despite the obvious benefits of the pebble groping. Well done!!

Vas Carmicheal · · Mexican Hat, UT · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 5

I suppose this new generation of pad-sniffers has really given a new meaning to the term "ground up"

reboot · · . · Joined Jul 2006 · Points: 125

Keep the masturbation going. I've never seen boulderers bite on these kind of weak sauce.

JNE · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 1,940
Vas Carmicheal wrote:Look, we all started from the same place, our Midwest university climbing club as sporto gumby chuffers. I knew very early on that our group was of a much finer pedigree than most of the other midwest locals, we were taught the ways by a group of American Gentleman who ventured west and learned the ways of old and passed on the knowledge in hopes that we would one day become well rounded American Gentleman ourselves. They taught us to climb the cracks in the parking garages, how to run the Pakistani death loop, and that the purest form of climbing was the On Sight.
This became unappealing when I figured out that the whole "ground up" thing was exclusively to practice for "the mountains", and that "the mountains" being important in terms of climbing was only because mountain expeditions are resource and so sponsor dependent, and thus the real point is to provide the sponsor with an opportunity they are incapable of earning themselves, WHICH I FOUND SAD. This made mountaineering the antithesis of finding ones self for me personally.

Vas Charmicheal wrote:However, we were deceived, a separate faction festered in the darkness, pebble wrestlers - the street urchins of the climbing.
Except your people have literally inverted the logical relationships in everything (though not consistently...see American Gentleman), and thus "the dark" is "the light" and the "street urchins" are the Men of Knowledge.

Vas Charmicheal wrote:So you see I have attempted to assimilate with these new street urchins, however I am still at a loss for why they refuse to indulge in such refined activities as REALLY GOING FOR IT on a nice On Sight, nice technical outings on vertical walls, or of course climping walls in a push.
Because it is funner to do things like TR long roof cracks with bad landings such that the roof length is significantly longer than the roofs distance from the ground, or to do highballs with a dearth of padding which are holistically more committing than their "routes", and then come online to read threads like this :)

Vas Charmicheal wrote:All I'm saying is, can you actually uninronically imagine a rock climb that starts by first sitting down?
No. However that, in addition to the fact that the American Gentleman both spray endlessly about their badassness yet can't manage things like sit starts is kind of the point.

Nice thread Vas. Keep training :)
Vas Carmicheal · · Mexican Hat, UT · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 5
JNE wrote: Except your people have literally inverted the logical relationships in everything (though not consistently...see American Gentleman), and thus "the dark" is "the light" and the "street urchins" are the Men of Knowledge.
Your understanding of the American Gentleman is fatally flawed, while the American Gentleman is a standard bearer of the old ways he has the common touch and delights in unironically playing pad games with the proletariat.

The AG is all-American-all-arounder
JNE · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 1,940
Vas Carmicheal wrote: Your understanding of the American Gentleman is fatally flawed, while the American Gentleman is a standard bearer of the old ways he has the common touch and delights in unironically playing pad games with the proletariat. The AG is all-American-all-arounder
No, I understand who the American Gentleman are quite well. Notice any similarities?

I'll give you a hint: The whole mythology of trolls is ancient propaganda regarding European "elites" made up by the "proletariat". You have been "new clothed" for thousands of years, and you did not even know it! Lol.
Vas Carmicheal · · Mexican Hat, UT · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 5

JNE,

This is coming straight from the horses mouth? My dear boy, you sound like a one trick pony. Stick to your 45° projects, I will play on them during my rest days.

The American Gentleman is no one-trick-pony, moreover he is the proprietor of the entire dog and pony show.

JNE · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 1,940
Vas Carmicheal wrote:JNE, This is coming straight from the horses mouth? My dear boy, you sound like a one trick pony. Stick to your 45° projects, I will play on them during my rest days. The American Gentleman is no one-trick-pony, moreover he is the proprietor of the entire dog and pony show.
No, that is solipsism.

You might look into the current cutting edge of physics. It appears as if Gravity has something to say about your claim...
rging · · Salt Lake City, Ut · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 210
Brian wrote:What?! You find this silly?
Add a shovel to your repertoire and you can dig that start down another five feet and double your climb lengths. Probably get some first ascents too.
Michael Schneider · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 735
rging wrote: Add a shovel to your repertoire and you can dig that start down another five feet and double your climb lengths. Probably get some first ascents too.
In the late 70s, The base of the wall at Watchung NJ was dug out as much as was possible.
The wall was the home stomping grounds of a teenagers who would become Gunks masters; Russ Raffa & Jeff Gruenberg along with others.
s.price · · PS,CO · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 1,348

Is there an equivalent to the micro take in bouldering or are these men and women really crushing the hardest moves on the planet?

eli poss · · Durango, Co · Joined May 2014 · Points: 456
JNE wrote: No, I understand who the American Gentleman are quite well. Notice any similarities? I'll give you a hint: The whole mythology of trolls is ancient propaganda regarding European "elites" made up by the "proletariat". You have been "new clothed" for thousands of years, and you did not even know it! Lol.
I guess you must have missed Guideline 1. It's pretty easy to miss, being right above the text box. Let me refresh your memory:

Guideline #1: don't be a jerk

It's fine to disagree but what you're doing is just petty name calling.
Brian L. · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2016 · Points: 90
s.price wrote:Is there an equivalent to the micro take in bouldering or are these men and women really crushing the hardest moves on the planet?
DAB!
Vas Carmicheal · · Mexican Hat, UT · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 5
s.price wrote:Is there an equivalent to the micro take in bouldering or are these men and women really crushing the hardest moves on the planet?
Mr. Price,

I see you are vigilant of the ever present micro-take, and I applaud your efforts of trying to shed some light on the issue. I will conduct a thorough review of the bouldering literature and media, and will report my findings to you.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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