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Petzl Nomics trainers?


Original Post
Eric Lutz · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2014 · Points: 180

Anyone have any experience with these?

escapeclimbing.com/extra/dr…

Emmett Lyman · · Somerville, MA · Joined Feb 2011 · Points: 380

I read a review of them last season (unfortunately can't remember where). Sounds like they're a cool idea and definitely give more of an ice climbing feel to training at the gym than other options like DryIce tools, but IIRC the stealth rubber pads wear out super fast and aren't replaceable. Once the rubber's worn off they're unusable. I think the advice I read was wait until they offer some kind of "resole" solution.

calebmmallory · · Seattle, N.Carolina, &Hong… · Joined Jun 2015 · Points: 425

They're a great idea in theory, but the product right now leaves much to be desired. The rubber has already began peeling off of mine after a couple uses. Also, and this goes without saying, don't except anything near the same level of sensitivity you get with a pick. I'll say they're an improvement from the dry ice icicles though.

Eric Lutz · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2014 · Points: 180

Thanks for the input. Was debating on these or the Dry Ice tools from FI, If they wear out that fast there's no point

alpinejason · · Minneapolis · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 175

I have them for the BD tools and wrote a review last winter on MP. I think they're good. Mine was one of the original retail batches that has different rubber than the current model. As stated previously the rubber is soft and does peel back. To be fair once the rubber initially peels, after just a few routes, it really hasn't gotten much worse after 100+ or whatever in the last year.

Sensitivity is lacking for sure, no hooking on dime edges, the rubber will roll off, which, in a lot of ways is like real dry tooling. Teaching you to maintain tool positions throughout your movement and the inevitability that your tool can pop regardless.

They definitely train the right muscle groups since you're using them on your actual ice tools with similar movement/placement.

I can climb up to about 5.10a with them, depending on the route. I occasionally have to cheat to get through a section of slopers or other impossible holds. However, this also mimics real dry tooling movement: if you can climb a section using your hands and the tools make it more awkward, climb it with your hands fool!

Have you used the Dry Ice Tools? They're a terrible substitution. You can only climb routes with specific hold in specific orientations, basically 5.4 jug hauls. They're lighter than real tool, placement is nothing like real dry tooling. I don't see these as anything other than a novelty. To each their own.

Regardless, if you're using in a gym, check with management regarding their rules and regulations.

Eric Lutz · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2014 · Points: 180

I've used the Dry Ice Tools, I like them for what they are. But they are the tools I use on ice and the loop doesn't place like anything in the outdoors. and since they cost roughly the same as the Nomic trainers I figured they'd make more sense.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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