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Moore's Wall- Indian Head Direct

Original Post
Sean M · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 25

Anyone here done this thing? I want to jump on it, but having a hard time finding much info beyond what's in the guidebook. Any gear or route beta would be appreciated!

Sean M · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 25


Ezra Ellis · · Hotlanta · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 0

Contact Nathan Brown via this site,
I followed him up it twelve years ago,
Small offset Aliens seemed to protect the crux well,
But my memory is foggy.
It was a massive sand bag at 5.10+
Probably closer to mid 5.11 in reality.
Have fun.
Tim Fisher would know also, if you can find him.
Bring long slings to cut up in case the descent is tricky!

dlm · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 5

I've done P1 two ways... Starting on Nevermore on the left (recommended) or starting at a chimney slot on the right, which may or may not be the original start for Indian Head. Either option can take you to a nice ledge just below a bulge with a thin hand crack. P2 crux goes through that crack and protects well with a #1 and .75. Easier climbing leads up to the steep corner. P3 is steep and pumpy and takes a little bit of everything gear wise. You should be able to get down with one rope by moving climber's left to the nearest gully, but I don't have clear recollection of that part.

Sean M · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 25

Thanks for the tips! Will report back after tmrw hopefully

Sean M · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 25

Well, didn't finish it, but here are my thoughts.

We warmed up on Nutsweat and then actually ran into Tim Fisher so he gave us a little more beta about the alternate starts. He showed us where the true start was, and the Nevermore version. He said the Nevermore version skips the crux of P2, so we decided to warm up on Nevermore, then rap and due the direct version from ground up.

Nevermore was fun/exciting, and I see why people like it as the alternate start (for several reasons). I would call Nevermore about 5.9, protects well, and seemed like good rock.

The first pitch of the direct start was probably 5.8/5.9, but on crappy rock and blocks. Lots of stuff sounded loose, but nothing came off.

P2 was HARD. Right after the anchor you have to go over an overhanging bulge with crappy feet, that just doesn't let up. It does indeed protect very well though. I think I shoved a #3 and a #.75 to protect the crux.

I fell on the crux maybe 5 times, and was about to just cheat past it, but my partner wanted to give it a go. He fell on it a couple times, but eventually got it, and I followed. However, we decided if this was actually the easier pitch, then we weren't sure if we were ready for P3, so we decided to bail. I would describe myself as an easy 5.10 trad climber, my partner is a bit stronger, and we're both solidly into the 5.11s on sport routes. We agreed that the crux sequence seemed like a mid 5.11 at least, even while following. Will go back sometime and try it by skipping P2 crux with nevermore.

dlm · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 5

Tim Fisher's beta is almost definitely more accurate than mine, but I do have a few things to add (going off memory from a few year back, so take it with a grain of salt): You don't necessarily have to skip the P2 crux if you start on Nevermore. You can just trend right at the top of Nevermore and end up on the same ledge below the P2 bulge. I don't remember specifics, but I think we were able to do this relatively easily without really changing the feel of the Nevermore pitch too much. The true P1 start has always been a little bit of a mystery to me. The chimney I referenced above is different than the P1 you describe, so there are actually at least 3 ways to get to the start of P2. I remember the chimney approach pitch feeling relatively easy but having one awkward and poorly protected move getting into the chimney, which is why I prefer the Nevermore pitch between those 2 options (I've never actually done the "true" P1, but from the sound of it, I still like the Nevermore option). Lastly, P3 is indeed hard, but I don't think it has any move as hard as the P2 sandbagged crux. It's just more sustained. Hope that helps. Good luck with P3.

Sean M · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 25

Cool! I see what you mean. You could definitely still get to the P2 crux by scrambling hard right and a little downward from the Nevermore rappel tree. We had to do that scramble in reverse as part of our bail. I agree Nevermore was more fun than the actual start.

If you look to right side of Nevermore, you first see a true chimney that looks a little intimidating, then immediately to the right of that there is a kind-of chimney-like thing that is what Tim indicated to us what the original start. I'll take some pics next time I'm there and add them to the route description. It didn't really involve any chimney technique, was just a little burly and loose. I would describe it as easier than Nevermore but not as a much fun.

Thanks for the reassurance about P3! I'm excited to get back out there and give it a go sometime, looks like such a cool feature!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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