Shoe sizing: Solutions and Geniuses

Original Post
Lardtazium · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 0

Hey everyone. I picked up a pair of geniuses in size 41 from craigslist. They fit real well, but I'm concerned about the durability of the shoe and the cost of resoling. It's got thinner rubber (3mm vs 4mm) and costs a bit more to resole, so I'd like to pick up another shoe as a daily driver. The genius is currently my only functional shoe.

I'm considering solutions. I see a few pairs on some used gear websites in size 40-43 and half sizes. Since it's used gear and there's no returns, I'm wondering what would be the safest size to get. Same size as genius? Half a size down?

The genius is snug. Slight discomfort after a few problems without taking them off and painful after a day of using them, but also a very good fit. Looking for solutions in that similar snug performance fit.

Cheers, thanks for reading.

Top Rope Hero · · Was Estes Park, now homeless · Joined Jan 2009 · Points: 1,140


I have to wear the Gs a half size LARGER b/c they don't seem to wear as comfortably. Both the solutions and the Futuras, for that matter, seem to fit my feet better and I can size them a bit tighter... Maybe you get the response?

I can wear Solutions as a daily beta shoe at 42, then switch to 42.5 for Genius redpoint attempts. Sounds stupid, I know, but actually it's quite....genius?!?

It's PROBABLY the case that I only TELL myself I'm getting better performance out of a looser fitting shoe only 'cause it costs more. But there you go. OH! And it's the same if I try Testerossas...I size them UP a half size too. For whatever reason I can really crank Solutions and Futuras much tighter...

My 2 cents...

eli poss · · Durango, Co · Joined May 2014 · Points: 456

Zachary Winters · · Mazama, Washington · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 103

I would guess same size. I've worn the Genius and only tried on the Solutions, but would buy the same size if I wanted Solutions. I size my Testarossas a half size up from that for what that's worth

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 190

So, I haven't used the Genius but do wear Solutions. Here are my thoughts, for what they're worth:

You can get away with downsizing in Solutions more than almost any other shoe (maybe Moccasyms?), as they're essentially a slipper design and will stretch. I also found the need to downsize much more aggressively (size 13 US/47ish EU street =>; 10.5 US/44 EU) than in other shoes because there's not much of a closure system and I had massive amounts of dead space in larger sizes that I couldn't crank down with that single strap (probably a poor match to my foot, but that heel and toe rubber...!). Since the Genius is laced, you'll get a much more precise fit and can crank it down if needed, so I'd predict being able to use a larger size (which might be nicer for your toes!). As a comparison, I also wear Katana Laces in 45.5/12, which is a good performance fit with the laces, although also a much less aggressive shoe.

Incidentally, that size Solutions fits about the same as 12.5 Shamans and 12 HiAngles, so shoe sizes are meaningless lol.

Jon Frisby · · Brooklyn, NY · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 100

I've never owned geniuses but have climbed in them and concur on sizing up 1/2 size from solutions. You will IMO be ok in either a 41 or 40.5 but I think a 41.5 Solution would feel sloppy

Lardtazium · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 0

Cheers guys. Just got a 40.5 for about half off. Let's hope they work out.

Otherwise, expect to see me in the sales forum within the month.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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