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Harness Questions

Original Post
Alex M. Smith · · Bozeman, MT · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 95

Looking into getting a new harness and figured I'd see what other people's experience was. Not looking to have two different harnesses, but rather one harness that will work for sport, trad (multi-pitch included) and ice climbing. Not really much alpine in my near future so it doesn't need to be ultra light.

That said, basic requirements are good gear loops that hold a trad rack well, comfortable enough to hang out at hanging belays, and spots for ice clippers.

I know the Misty Mountain Cadillac is a crowd favorite for trad climbing but I was hoping to spend a little less than that. I've been looking at the BD Aspect and the Mammut Togir 3 Slide harnesses - any thoughts on these? They look like they'll fit the functionality bill pretty well but I'm not sure how comfortable they'll be.

Adrienne DiRosario · · Troy, NY · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 0

The DMM Renegade is fantastic.

DrApnea · · Wenatchee, WA · Joined May 2011 · Points: 250

BD aspect sounds perfect. Ice clipper slots, long "5th gear loop" along the back to hold extras on a long route,and pretty compact/light when emptied except for draws on sport. Everyone has favorites but I think it is a good harness for what you are looking for. I have and use it for all that you just said and even used it for the nose without any regret. My Misty mountain stays in a bin in the man cave for what its worth.

JK- Branin · · Southern New Hampshire · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 56

BD aspect or Petzl Calidris would be my choices for that.

Connor McCarthy · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2016 · Points: 85

BD Aspect is the way to go. You'll see it used for alpine ascents on Denali, trad climbing, and I use mine for sport climbing too. It's an all-around great and durable harness.

J W · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Feb 2004 · Points: 1,546

Edelrid Orion. Seriously- its the only harness I've worn since it came out 5 years ago, and its hands down the most comfortable harness on the market (way better than Misty).

Also has those ice clipper thingies on it.

If Edelrid would bring the Atmosphere back to the states, I'd probably pick that one up for sport, but as an all-arounder, the Orion can't be beat.

Zach Ciaglia · · Chicago, Il · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 147

I've been using the BD Aspect for all of the above. Big walling in it this summer, might end poorly, but I have high hopes for it!

DavisMeschke Guillotine · · Armchair Asshole · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 225

+1 for the DMM Renegade. It has everything you're looking for.

Alex M. Smith · · Bozeman, MT · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 95

Can anybody speak to comfort of the BD Aspect or DMM Renegade while hanging at belays? Either way, thanks for the thoughts!

Paul Hutton · · Kansas City, MO · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 740

The harness I've had my sights set on is the Petzl Sitta. Petzl boasts it to be a great all-arounder, including ice climbing.

Adrienne DiRosario · · Troy, NY · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 0

Renegade is pretty good on hanging belays, the wide back helps distribute the weight. Hanging belays are never fun but I've haven't found myself wishing I was wearing something different.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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