Ice/Mixed local to LA


Original Post
Brice Way · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2016 · Points: 0

Can anyone please provide beta on moderate ice/mixed climbing in areas local to LA. I was thinking Mt. Baldy or Tahquitz areas. Anyone know current conditions?

Fat Dad · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 5

We're talking about the same LA right? Tahquitz gets some ice when conditions are right, but it's fickle. You almost need to be a local or somewhat lucky to hit it right. The Trough forms up briefly some years, and the North side gets stuff too. I've never had too much luck, but others definitely have.

Benjamin Chapman · · Small Town, USA · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 12,867

Brice...don't have any current information on the conditions at Tahquitz, but as stated before the situation can be a bit fickle to get reasonable ice conditions. Good snow pack, warm days and cold nights. Unfortunately, this recent series of storms were warm and the nighttime temperatures haven't been sufficiently cold. The last storm in the series was colder, with snow down to 3,500 feet, but the nighttime temperatures haven't been CONSISTENTLY cold enough. Maybe February?

Piotr · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2010 · Points: 40

FB Group: ice climbers of Southern California.

Kevin Mokracek · · Burbank · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 50

This was Williamson this morning. Too bad it's illegal to climb there now.

Willy
Tunnel Crag

Tunnel Crag

Fat Dad · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 5

Actually, as Kevin probably knows (which his post reminded me of), there is occasionally some stuff that forms up on Williamson. I have some old pics of me somewhere climbing a thick sheet that formed on the Waterfall Wall. The ice was really thin, but with only a tiny bit of excavating, you could clip the bolts on the sport climbs underneath. Good fun.

Kevin Mokracek · · Burbank · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 50

I have climbed ice bottom to top on the main face during good years as well as ice in the back of the big chimney. The obvious is the ice that forms on the Waterfall wall and it just doesn't get better than that in So Cal. The smear on the main face however was three full pitches of ice, too much fun!

Guy Keesee · · Moorpark, CA · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 105

Actually.... I believe the closure is not in force at this time.... the closure expires Jan 1 .... and it takes the fat Lazy FS a couple of weeks to get before a judge and tell the lies about the frogs that they have told for years and years now.... and somehow they can't dig up the money to do the STUDY that the closure is based on.

Hopefully when Our New President takes office, corrupt forest service personnel will be required to prove their false claims once and for all.

And they can't because the graduate students who lobbied for this have all graduated college and are busy working at real jobs to pay off huge student loans. And hopefully the CBD will have bigger fish to fry when other stupid enviro stuff gets challenged in court.

(last little bit is just my personal little rant :>) )

I think the Ice will not be formed just yet at willie-- it always took longer.... you might also try the creek down a bit from Buckhorn Camp Ground .... those water falls also freeze up, but quicker cause they are down in the deep shade... good luck have fun.

Kevin Mokracek · · Burbank · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 50

Guy, we need to go climbing sometime, I think we have a lot in common. I like the way you think.

Guy Keesee · · Moorpark, CA · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 105
Kevin Mokracek wrote:Guy, we need to go climbing sometime, I think we have a lot in common. I like the way you think.
Kevin... looking to go to that Saline Valley place... only I don't have a 4x4... Jan and Feb and April are booked with Kart racing now... I have March and May onward free (on weekends). I think this will be a pretty spectacular year out there as soon as spring time comes around.... And I think I can now hack the 40min approach.
Joe Garibay · · Ventura, Ca · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 45

Even IF the frogs need protecting from climbers, why would it close Williamson down in the winter? Those frogs are ice cubes right now. Can't imagine that ice picks would disrupt or pop little frozen frogs.

Nathan Large · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2016 · Points: 8
Kevin Mokracek wrote:This was Williamson this morning. Too bad it's illegal to climb there now. Tunnel Crag
Awesome photos.The place is a forbidden gem.

Guy Keesee wrote:Actually.... I believe the closure is not in force at this time.... the closure expires Jan 1 .... and it takes the fat Lazy FS a couple of weeks to get before a judge
Any idea where I might be able to look this up? I couldn't find any information on the closure order expiring at the end of 2016. I would love to climb there.
Guy Keesee · · Moorpark, CA · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 105

Nathan.... here you go. not a direct link... I gave up caring years ago so I don't know the ANF direct info website... but if you look through this topic, Pud and some of the other folks have links to FOWR... as well as the ANF.

supertopo.com/climbing/thre...;msg=2930991#msg2930991

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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