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Climbing in Central Mexico

Original Post
Josh McAlister · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Jun 2016 · Points: 130

My climbing partner and I will be in Central Mexico next week. We plan on staying at Peña de Bernal from the 16th-19th and climbing around Ajusco at Los Dinamos the 20-22nd.

Looking for local beta and anyone is welcome to join us.

theeinjem · · New Paltz, NY · Joined May 2016 · Points: 38

I just got back and did a write up. The place is magic. My number one recommendation is to stay at Chichid'ho on the other side of the mountain (if you can pack camping stuff)

-This is for lack of a better description, one huge rock! This area houses multi pitch, single pitch, bouldering and some small spires for low grade free solo missions.
thoughtful new, well spaced climbs being carefully cleaned and bolted all the time.
-This volcanic intrusion has very good quality rock. The climbs have been cleaned well and we experienced not much rock fall or holds breaking at all.
-Typically, the start of many climbs are slopey and slabby then turn into more edgy chicken heads.
-There is also some sustained overhang on the El Capitain mini crag/giant boulder very comparable to the red.
- There are boulders all over the Chichid'ho property on the back of the monolith
-There are spires to the right of the front of the monolith that have yet to be developed. They are currently only bolted at the top for high line, but you can throw some shoes and chalk on in order to scramble to the top of a few.

Multi pitch:
-The big multi pitch climbs are roughly 7pitches, about 35m per pitch. Bring a 70m and use 2 ropes if climbing in a party of 3. The routes wander, so be sure to get good beta from locals or keep a keen eye out for anchors when getting to the half way of the rope. Radios were helpful due to the wind and the wandery nature of the routes.
-get out early in January or stay in the shade the sun is strong by midday

Single pitch:
-There are quite a few new, single pitch routes near King Kong
- Message Southern Xposure for beta. I believe a new guidebook is coming out soon.

Getting there:
-It is only 40 minutes and $2 (44 pesos) to get to Peña de Bernal.
-be careful how late you travel from Querétaro to Bernal. The local bus stops running around 9 as well as the taxis.
-Mexico City was cheaper for me to fly to. There are busses (Primera Plus) that go straight from the airport to Queratero or any taxi from a hostel or hotel (clearly marked and easy to find) to the Central Norte to Querétaro $18 (300 pesos)

Town of Bernal:
-"You can take a girl, throw her in the middle of town at 2am in a bikini and she'd be fine"
-The town is safe, clean, welcoming, colorful and thriving. I had no issue as a young female from the United States walking through the town alone at night with all of my luggage.
-the Peña is a big tourist attraction especially during the Christmas/New Years season.

-There is a fruteria with tons of fresh produce. no stomach issues from fresh fruits or veggies.
-The street food Elote. It is corn on the cob with mayo, cheese, lime and chili powder.
-The ice cream across the street from Hector's hotel

-Chichid'ho for camping. There has access to sport multipitch, two single pitch sport crags that grow every day. You can rent crash pads. There is a huge community kitchen, water. showers, bathrooms, tons of hammocks and places where you can camp that are 5 feet from some boulder problems.
- Getting from town to Chichid'ho is a bit of a hike and can be difficult to find if you don't know where you are going. $8/150 pesos per night.
-The hotel at Hector's horse farm/house/hotel. beds, water, showers and a place to hang out in the center of town with a 10 min approach to the big climbs. $27/360 pesos
-Casa Celia is next door to Hector's and for around the same price I believe they have a hot tub overlooking the Peña.

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