Are You F*n Kidding Me??


Original Post
Rob Dillon · Jan 9, 2017 · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2002 · Points: 645
This is a sport climb?

16' V0 with holes stuck in it

https://www.mountainproject.com/v/astalavista-baby/112419998

Derek Doucet · Jan 9, 2017 · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 53
Rob Dillon wrote:This is a sport climb? mountainproject.com/v/astal...
Don't worry, man. That's an old school trad face pitch- drilled on the lead fer sure.

scott fuzz · Jan 9, 2017 · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 0
The lens subtracts 35 meters-

Michael Schneider · Jan 9, 2017 · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 85
scott fuzz wrote:The lens subtracts 35 meters-
New River Gorge West Virginia, but still?,

Burcheydawwwwwwg · Jan 9, 2017 · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 375
Have you made sure to post it to all the forums? Don't miss any

Nolan Huther · Jan 9, 2017 · Clarkson University · Joined Dec 2014 · Points: 587
Watch for rope drag on this long and wandering pitch. Double ropes recommended

BrokenChairs · Jan 9, 2017 · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 177
35' of rope is lighter and easier to carry than crash pads. I motion to bolt all boulder problems and cracks. It just makes everything more convenient. Who wants to carry around a rack or crash pad anyway.

BrokenChairs · Jan 9, 2017 · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 177
Nolan Huther wrote:Watch for rope drag on this long and wandering pitch. Double ropes recommended
hahahahahaha +1 on the double ropes.

ChrisHau · Jan 9, 2017 · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 175
Michael Schneider wrote: New River Gorge West Virginia, but still?
That climb, Reckless Abandon , consists of that vertical crack for only a body length or so. It makes sense as a sport route rather than a mixed route with mostly bolts and a token piece of gear.

The New, due to the nature of the rock, offers plenty of traditional protection opportunities on routes established completely as sport climbs. The New was spared the stupid bolt wars of many other areas because there's plenty of every style to go around, and people respected the wish of a developer to have a full sport line instead of a needless R/X lead or a contrived mixed route.

David A · Jan 9, 2017 · Amsterdam, Netherlands · Joined Oct 2008 · Points: 205
LOL!

FrankPS · Jan 9, 2017 · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 15
Everyone's outraged about something these days. It's very trendy to be outraged and show you care.

Nolan Huther · Jan 9, 2017 · Clarkson University · Joined Dec 2014 · Points: 587
FrankPS wrote:Everyone's outraged about something these days. It's very trendy to be outraged and show you care.
Its more of a pasttime than a trend

Jason Halladay · Jan 9, 2017 · Los Alamos, NM · Joined Oct 2005 · Points: 9,740
Stick clip recommended

Roy Suggett · Jan 9, 2017 · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 6,210
Weather must be poor across the continent. Too many of us sucked into these head shakers.

John Barritt · Jan 9, 2017 · OKC · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 865
ChrisHau wrote: That climb, Reckless Abandon , consists of that vertical crack for only a body length or so. It makes sense as a sport route rather than a mixed route with mostly bolts and a token piece of gear. The New, due to the nature of the rock, offers plenty of traditional protection opportunities on routes established completely as sport climbs. The New was spared the stupid bolt wars of many other areas because there's plenty of every style to go around, and people respected the wish of a developer to have a full sport line instead of a needless R/X lead or a contrived mixed route.
That's a lot of 'splainin' Lucy, looking at this pic I think that it would go without clipping any of the bolts. mountainproject.com/v/11119... JB

Laronicus Lehmanold · Jan 9, 2017 · Salt Lake, UT · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 150
Make sure your bring your prusik on this one! Hahaha.

Marc801 C · Jan 9, 2017 · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 0
John Barritt wrote:That's a lot of 'splainin' Lucy, looking at this pic I think that it would go without clipping any of the bolts. mountainproject.com/v/11119... JB
So what? The ethic at the NRG allows for bolt protection even when natural gear placements are available.

Dave Holliday · Jan 9, 2017 · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2003 · Points: 1,126
John Barritt wrote:That's a lot of 'splainin' Lucy, looking at this pic I think that it would go without clipping any of the bolts. mountainproject.com/v/11119... JB
Why don't you show us how it's done? Go ground up for true "trad" style. Report back after you've successfully sent it on gear.

Long Ranger · Jan 9, 2017 · Boulder, Colorado · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 5
What's funnier is that they've established about 4 routes on this boulder.

I think it would have perhaps made more sense to just bolt an anchor on top, so that you could top rope the boulder problems,

if you wanted to.

Or just save the bolts, I guess.

Fat Dad · Jan 9, 2017 · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 5
I don't get the whole "everyone complains about everything..." defense to every issue raised. We are (hopefully) smart enough to distinguish between issues worth discussing and pointless rants. I mean have you read some of the tweets in response to Meryl Streep's speech saying that Obama is the true hate mongerer (sorry to bring in politics but hopefully you get my point).

Back to Rob: normally I'd agree with you, but this sounds like a summit block where a fall might be bad or where you can't lug up a crash pad. Maybe. I could totally be wrong and this climb is completely weak sauce. Having said that, it is way smaller than just about every boulder at the Milks, for example, and, thank heavens, they haven't started bolting those yet.

Brendan Blanchard · Jan 9, 2017 · Boulder, CO · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 465
Roy Suggett wrote:Weather must be poor across the continent. Too many of us sucked into these head shakers.
From Joshua Tree to the Front Range at least. Good thing there's all these McDonald's around for free wi-fi so we can all weigh in on these important issues.

Fast food is aid! Slow food all the way.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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