Climbing Harness on Market Without Speed Buckle?


Original Post
Jonny d · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2011 · Points: 0

Folks- I don't care much for "speed buckles." Admittedly, I'm way over concerned with the ability of a speed buckle to catch on something and release, so I end up really liking manual double-back buckles. Any recommendations for a comfortable, all-day sort of harness with adjustable leg loops that manually doubles back and is available on the market? Couldn't find any on a quick search. Looking to replace a BD Momentum AL. Thanks in advance for any suggestions.

Keatan · · Bozeman, MT · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 0

Misty Mountain Cadillac. They'll do a custom version of any of their other harnesses with a standard buckle too if I'm not mistaken.

sherb · · Loveland, Ohio & Wheat Ridg... · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 0

Misty Mountain is probably the best option, if you had the BD Momentum before. I have the Finesse and it's pretty good. Cadillac is better with more gear loops (besides Finesse is for women).

If you want another option, the Metolius Waldo, Safe Tech all around, Safe Tech Deluxe, are still double backed.

I don't think Yates makes climbing harnesses anymore but my yates one was double backed also.

You're right.... except for alpine harnesses all I see all ones with speed buckles. Makes making sure your partner is double backed a pointless activity. I prefer double backed ones also, except it's tougher to tighten and "corset" in my fat. Problem is I have many harnesses trying to find the holy grail of harnesses, so I have to double check which buckle style I'm wearing to make sure I don't assume it's a speed one. Metolius Safe tech say they will hold some weight even if not double backed, probably only safe if you forget in a lowering/toprope situation.

John Wilder · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Feb 2004 · Points: 1,500

I remember when Misty Mountain started reluctantly offering a speed buckle and I thought, whelp, the days of the regular double pass buckle are numbered.

With the exception of Metolius (who overbuild everything) and Misty Mountain, I don't think there are any regular technical rock harnesses made with an old style buckle. BDs alpine bod still has the old style, but it's not a good rock harness.

Given the sheer number of speed buckles on the market, I'd say worry about it coming loose is probably not worthwhile, but if you really want the old school setup, at least the harnesses you can get it on are good ones!

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 45

I'm with you, brother. "Quick adjust" harnesses also creep loose. I bought a Misty with the double backing buckles and love it, after a brief adjustment period where I admittedly hated it (it does take getting used to). Never loosens, and I like that you can open it completely (better for storage/cramming into a pack). I've also never even come remotely close to forgetting to double back...seriously, it feels super weird if you don't since you end up with a strap hanging down.

Old lady H · · Boise, Idaho · Joined Aug 2015 · Points: 120

Unless something changed really recently, big gun harnesses are double backed, legs and waist. I'm forever pointing out to new people that my harness does, indeed, need to be checked.

Helen

rob.calm · · Loveland, Colorado · Joined May 2002 · Points: 545
Keatan wrote:Misty Mountain Cadillac. They'll do a custom version of any of their other harnesses with a standard buckle too if I'm not mistaken.
I bought a harness from them a couple of years ago and special-ordered double back buckle. I assume they will still do that.
Travis Provin · · Boulder CO · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 40

Metolius Safe Tech Deluxe uses a double back buckle, and it has a few safety features on the buckle and webbing.

K. Le Douche · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2008 · Points: 65

I have a Metolius Safe Tech, and love it. Only harness I could find with adjustable rise and leg loops (I'm a tall gangly bastard), and it fits your need for and old-school buckle.

kevin deweese · · Oakland, Ca · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 200

Black Diamond Big Gun Harness has manual buckles

Travis Provin · · Boulder CO · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 40
K. Le Douche wrote:I have a Metolius Safe Tech, and love it. Only harness I could find with adjustable rise and leg loops (I'm a tall gangly bastard), and it fits your need for and old-school buckle.
Same here 6'4" and I love the adjustable rise! This harness is so comfy.
mpech · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 6

If you're worried about creep on a speed buckle, just tie an overhand knot in the webbing just after the buckle-- this effectively limits how much creep can occur. I sometimes do this when I am doing body-weight hauling.

I think that speed buckles are a great invention.

best,
matt

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 45

The question is: why do we need something that is "quick adjusting" in the first place? Harnesses are meant to be worn all day, it's not like your climbing shoes where you'll be ripping them on and off after every pitch.

Stich · · Colorado Springs, Colorado · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 1,240

My Petzl Corax has so much friction cinching down the so-called speed buckle that I doubt it would ever creep loose. I have to jam the webbing in the buckle to tighten it.

Jim Titt · · Germany · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 0

Double-back buckles are pretty much gone now, I changed to one when I watched my climbing partners harness fall to his ankles half way up a route because he forgot to double back and we decided we were suffering from old age and senility.
Ocun make a wall harness with double back one side and speed on the other side of the waist loop so you can get the best or worst of both worlds!

mpech · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 6
Ted Pinson wrote:The question is: why do we need something that is "quick adjusting" in the first place? Harnesses are meant to be worn all day, it's not like your climbing shoes where you'll be ripping them on and off after every pitch.
I thought that the main idea is that the buckle is always correctly double-backed-- there is no opportunity for the user to ever incorrectly attach their harness.
Ross Ayer · · Southington, CT · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 40

+1 for Big Gun! Great harness

cyclestupor · · Woodland Park, Colorado · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 68

Jonny,

FWIW, I bought a BD Chaos harness for myself for x-mas. It does have a "speed buckle" but I have noticed that to loosen the buckle, I have to seperate the top plate from the bottom plate. Unlike other speed buckles I have used it won't loosen by simply pulling out on the whole buckle assembly.

It sounds like you are pretty set on having a double back buckle, and I won't fault you for that. But if you are just worried about a speed buckle snagging on something, or slowly working it's way loose, the BD buckles seem to eliminate that possibility.

Seth Jones · · New Lenox, IL · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 5
mpech wrote: I thought that the main idea is that the buckle is always correctly double-backed-- there is no opportunity for the user to ever incorrectly attach their harness.
This is the way I understand it, as well.
Jonny d · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2011 · Points: 0

Thanks for the feedback,e veryone. Cyclestupor-- I'll check out the Chaos; thanks for the tips. If I'm not a fan, I'll head over to Misty Mountain or Metolius.

Darren in Vegas · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 1,900
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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