Are "shoe farts" the sign of a bad shoe fit?


Original Post
Lardtazium · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 0

Hi all. I'm looking for new shoes currently. I really wanted to like testarossas, but I couldn't get the toebox to be anything but painful. Then I tried on solutions, which were real comfy for what they were. However, the shoe seems to have an air pocket in it somewhere and farts whenever I get on my toes. For example, if my foot goes from un-weighted to edging, as soon as I place weight on that toe the shoe will release a nice little *poot*.

Does anyone have an opinion about whether or not I should care about this? I only had about 5 minutes on a demo wall with the shoe, so I can't form any personal opinion.

Edit: Should mention I currently us the katana lace, which fits like a glove with no farting. However it's too flat to do some of things I want it to, which is why I've been looking at solutions/testas.

Nat D · · Seattle, WA · Joined Nov 2015 · Points: 425

For me testarossas don't, solutions dont, otaki's do. No effect while climbing one way or the other. The sound generally comes as a result of the motion of releasing forefoot pressure then replanting the foot with heel pressure, a very uncommon sequence while climbing, mostly this happens upon lowering off a pitch, ending a pitch, or jumping off a boulder problem. None of which require critical footwork.

Greg D · · Here · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 511

In order to get a shoe fart the shoe must fit almost like a glove. So it's actually a good thing. If the toebox fits well that is probably the most important aspect of the shoes. A few years ago I switched from the testarossa to the solution as well. I've been very happy with it.

JWong Wong · · Los Angeles, California · Joined Apr 2008 · Points: 0

maybe look at lacing patterns to help lock the heel down. Runners do this a lot and it really helped me with dialing out air pockets.

http://www.fieggen.com/shoelace/locklacing.htm

Greg D · · Here · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 511

^^^. Umm. It's a Velcro shoe. Her Dee der.

JWong Wong · · Los Angeles, California · Joined Apr 2008 · Points: 0

Doh... never mind then

Nick Niebuhr · · Telluride, CO · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 460

I've had shoe farts in my Mythos, Solutions, and Vapors. I think for me it's because I have high arches, I'd guess there's air somewhere in there for you but that doesn't necessarily mean it's a bad fit

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 45

The clearest sign of a bad fit is hot spots and/or dead space. For example, no matter how hard I try, I cannot get a good fit out of LS Miura VSes. At size 45, my toes are absolutely crushed (painful), but I have to pull the back strap all the way down so that I'm almost stepping on it or else I have huge air pockets on either side of my ankle. Same thing with Instinct VS - either my toes are crushed, or my heels are loose. If you can't size the shoes down so that you achieve a "glove-like" fit without causing pain, the shoe is not a good fit for your foot.

that guy named seb · · Britland · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 0

Fart when edging=loose space in mid foot.
Fart when walking=poor fit in heel
In both situations a better fit can be achieved by down sizing (you often need to down size more than one would expect example:ondra is size 43 and sizes his shoes down to a size 37 to get the best fit) but if down sizing still fails you find a different shoe.

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 45

I don't think downsizing 6 sizes is realistic for most climbers. As with most things Ondra...only appropriate if you are Ondra.

Especially in a stiff shoe like the Katana! I made the mistake of downsizing too aggressively (46/47 to 44.5) and had to give up on the shoe after it was giving me permanent joint damage.

that guy named seb · · Britland · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 0
Ted Pinson wrote:I don't think downsizing 6 sizes is realistic for most climbers. As with most things Ondra...only appropriate if you are Ondra. Especially in a stiff shoe like the Katana! I made the mistake of downsizing too aggressively (46/47 to 44.5) and had to give up on the shoe after it was giving me permanent joint damage.
I down size as much as ondra and it's fine, it's really just about getting the pain tollerance but after that you get a perfectly fitting shoe, the numbers for ondra where from his dawn wall push, he wearing Katana laces maybe you need to just stop being such a wuss. ;)
Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 45

I know, but who knows if he actually does that normally (probably, but in Pythons which are much softer). It's not a matter of pain tolerance, it's a matter of permanent damage.

http://eveningsends.com/climbing-shoes-tight/

https://www.trainingbeta.com/how-painful-should-my-climbing-shoes-be/

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Post a Reply

Log In to Reply