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Onsight


Original Post
Tyler Metheney · · St Louis · Joined Sep 2016 · Points: 0

Curious as to how long it took my fellow climbers to onsight 12.b indoor or out.

mbk · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 0

Probably less than three minutes, especially indoors.

Jack C. · · Calgary, AB · Joined Mar 2013 · Points: 325

Onsight? Never. Redpoint? Probably three years or so outside on bolts. But I climb about once a month so...

Kees van der Heiden · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 40

Never.

Danny Sandoval · · LA, CA · Joined Apr 2016 · Points: 0

I thought this was the starting point?

USBRIT Ross · · Keswick Cumbria.UK · Joined Apr 2001 · Points: 21,363

The only true on sight is a ground up First Ascent. On sight with chalked holds in place bolts or cams etc is not On Sight

Josh Triplett · · Bountiful, UT · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 0

Depends on what you mean by how long. Took me a couple of years of bouldering, But I agree with previous reply, there were chalked holds and I would say because of how short and bouldery it was, was very soft @ 12b. I'm not too hung up on onsighting, but it can be a fun challege.

I am into climbing harder all the time, but only if I am getting on routes that are fun. I won't get on a 5.13 just because of the grade, but if someone recommends it to me or it is well reviewed, it could totally shut me down and if I'm having fun it doesn't matter.

Tyler Metheney · · St Louis · Joined Sep 2016 · Points: 0

Well I been climbing for 5 months and just got my firstly 11d. Guess I was just wandering if that is natural progression or if I should b3 doing harder things given the amount of time I've been vlimbing.

Jon W · · Longmont Colorado · Joined Jun 2010 · Points: 95

Took me about 2 years to onsight my first 12a and about 3 years to onsight a real 12b and 6 years to onsight 12c. I was climbing all the time and not working redpoints more than 5 or six times. That is to say, I did not do much in the way of projecting. Certainly no long term projecting. So I had a lot of volume and could read routes decently. I also had a lot of endurance from doing LOTS of trad. So, I could lock off and stand for quite a while. One 12c took over an hour to do. Nothing was super steep.

There are some 12a routes that I've been saving for almost 20 years for onsight. I keep walking up to them and going "I'm not ready yet". :)

Tyler Metheney · · St Louis · Joined Sep 2016 · Points: 0

My goal is to nab my first outside 12a before I have a year of climbing in.

ViperScale · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 235

Took me 4 days for my first on sight indoors. Really sucked we ran out of food after 3 days on the ledge, never planned for it taking more than 2.

PS: Bastard employees wouldn't drop us anything else when we ran out.

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 190
Tyler Metheney wrote:Well I been climbing for 5 months and just got my firstly 11d. Guess I was just wandering if that is natural progression or if I should b3 doing harder things given the amount of time I've been vlimbing.
Toproped indoors?
Acmesalute76 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 55

This ^^^^^^

Tyler Metheney · · St Louis · Joined Sep 2016 · Points: 0

Top rope inside but I can climb that grade outside as well. Just takes a little longer. I can lead as well.

Maxime Jacques · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 3

In my mind, an achievable goal for onsighting a 12.b would be 2.5 to 3 years. I mean, you can always find a route that suits you perfectly, and say you onsighted 12.b, but I wouldn't want to be that guy who runs around saying he onsighed 1 climb of a specific grade

Tyler Metheney · · St Louis · Joined Sep 2016 · Points: 0

Yea I totally agree with you there. Just cause I can climb 5.11 but not consistent. So I'd say I'm a 5.10 climber solid. Some people will send a 12a and then tell everyone their a 12 climber which is completely bogus an fake.

Josh Triplett · · Bountiful, UT · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 0
Tyler Metheney wrote:Yea I totally agree with you there. Just cause I can climb 5.11 but not consistent. So I'd say I'm a 5.10 climber solid. Some people will send a 12a and then tell everyone their a 12 climber which is completely bogus an fake.
Climb what makes you happy. People that want to spew about how hard they climb or spend more than 30 seconds giving you an idea of where they are in their progression are just insecure. I don't spend time worrying what others climb unless I'm planning a trip to an area where route difficulty could be a barrier to less experienced climbers enjoyment of the outing.
Parker Wrozek · · Denver, CO · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 83
Tyler Metheney wrote:Top rope inside but I can climb that grade outside as well. Just takes a little longer. I can lead as well.
Gym grades are dumb and don't matter. If it is on top rope it also doesn't matter. When you have to clip off terrible feet with a tiny crimp or decide to power past and risk a big whip it changes everything.
curt86iroc · · Golden, CO · Joined Dec 2014 · Points: 63
Kees wrote:Never.
x2
Tyler Metheney · · St Louis · Joined Sep 2016 · Points: 0

In your opinion top rope doesn't matter. But indoor is a great way to train for when warmer weather approaches. Don't act elite.

BigNobody · · all over, mostly Utah · Joined Nov 2013 · Points: 10
USBRIT wrote:The only true on sight is a ground up First Ascent. On sight with chalked holds in place bolts or cams etc is not On Sight
This^^^
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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