Options in case of red rock rain


oakwood-jones · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 0

Local opinion on sport climbing at red rocks tomorrow (wed) afternoon? Good to go? Bad idea? Depends on area/aspect?

John Wilder · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Feb 2004 · Points: 1,530
oakwood-jones wrote:Local opinion on sport climbing at red rocks tomorrow (wed) afternoon? Good to go? Bad idea? Depends on area/aspect?
Generally, if you're hiking through mud/damp sand to get to the crag, it's probably too wet. If it's dusty/sandy, it's fine.

Forecast is for wind tonight, so that could help, but more rain tomorrow through Friday.

Just kind of a wet winter this year. Sucks for us weekend warriors, I've been skiing the last 4 weeks because it's rained every Friday and Saturday! I'm headed to mammoth again this weekend, I think. Or Owens, maybe...
dnoB ekiM · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 2,555
Mike T wrote: Any more info on this? Is this it?
As cool as that wall looks from the valley floor...it becomes the "amazing shrinking cliff" as you approach it. It is not that tall, not very consistent (very blocky/ledgy) and not developed (to my knowledge). The wall to the right...which you can't see in your pic...is likely what Mr. Beck is referring to in the quote you reference.
Healyje · · PDX · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 285
oakwood-jones wrote:Options in case of red rock rain
Drinking myself into a stupor until the rain stops and we've both dried out has always worked for me in the past.
Thomas Beck · · Las Vegas, Nevada · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 1,040
dnoB ekiM wrote: As cool as that wall looks from the valley floor...it becomes the "amazing shrinking cliff" as you approach it. It is not that tall, not very consistent (very blocky/ledgy) and not developed (to my knowledge). The wall to the right...which you can't see in your pic...is likely what Mr. Beck is referring to in the quote you reference.
----------------------------------------
You can find that high cliff using Google Maps: 36 13 12 x 115 21 35
I haven't been there personally.

The track leading past the Rodeo Wall is close to a gentle hill approach and the wall faces SE. It's backed against the escarpment so doesn't look like much from a distance. It might be here: 36 13 39 x 115 21 25

Another crag is called The Test Site. To get there, drive up Kyle Canyon Road (NV 157) about 7.7 miles. There is a speed marker at the turn off. Turn south and follow the dirt tracks..one way it's nice to have a 4WD but you can get there with a standard vehicle if you circle around. You end up on a flat bench with lots of expended shell casings. Hike down into the wash and hike east about a mile (past a slot canyon turn off). Then go south to find the crag. You'll cross a ridge. It's harder to keep your direction once you are in the wash. Best to spot the wall from the paved road and mark some landmarks.

Test Site: left to right. Crag faces NE
project
Critical Mass 11b/c
Self Destruct Sequence 12a/b
Ground Zero 12c/d
Contamination 12a
Glowing for It 10d
Unknown 13a
Ashes to Ashes 13b
Countdown to Armageddon 13c
project
Quark Corner 11b
Ed's Route 11d

I tried the 10d years back. Thought it was at the grade but hard for me.
Leslie McG · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 410

THANK YOU, Thomas!!!! Gun Club is too sharp for my hands. Going to check this out for sure!

Thomas Beck · · Las Vegas, Nevada · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 1,040

Remember you cross the Kyle Canyon drainage. If there is a big dump up around Charleston that's where the water ends up. No catchment basin till you get down by the power lines.

There have been some big time flash floods through that area but normally they occur during the monsoon season.

Test Site is less sharp than the Gun Club. Got some pocket pulling there. I lump the Gun Club and Lone Mountain into the crossley sharp choss-pile category.

A couple other developed sport crags are in the same area; Area 51 (a cave) and Dreamland. I don't have good beta for them. Dreamland is a cave (faces west) and supposed to be better quality (less sharp) than the Test site with many vertical dike systems. What I read is there is not a lot of development...mostly in the 12 range, but a lot potential for 9's, 10's. 11's. Though you approach through a posted zone, these areas are not in the official La Madre Wilderness.

I tried a couple times to follow the directions and find Area 51 and Dreamland. Got lost, ran out of daylight. Supposed to be a 15 minute walk...ha ha. Came to the conclusion the writer may have been smoking a bit. First time in to the Test Site I'd allow for an hour approach time.

Lost interest. My opinion was the window for these areas is very small...either too cold or too hot, but now with several weeks of wet weather the window is expanded.

Info is from 1995

Carla R · · San Jose, CA · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 110
BigB wrote:Heard a rumor that more key holds were broken on "big bad wolf "over the weekend by a group climbing too soon after the rain
Any more info on this?
Doug Foust · · Henderson, Nevada · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 165
Carla Rosa wrote: Any more info on this?
Climbed it yesterday and didn't notice anything, still feels 5.8ish.
Daniel Chambo · · Carrboro, North Carolina · Joined Nov 2013 · Points: 60

So folks, after all this rain, when's the next time shady and sunny routes should be good to go? I'm guessing Monday, but would like to hear local opinions.

Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65

Posted on Cilogear's Facebook page:

Michael Dom · · Seattle · Joined Dec 2015 · Points: 1,454

There is also keyhole canyon (meh) and you could go to arrowhead canyon (still meh).

BigB · · Red Rock, NV · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 340

Michael, just curious ...^ what didn't you like about keyhole?

khalifornia · · Colorado · Joined Nov 2015 · Points: 0

Marc

That CiloGear post was in response to this:

https://www.instagram.com/p/BPRIKZ3jVCb/?taken-by=courtneyasanders&hl=en

Courtney Sanders and Daniel Woods trying to justify why they climb west sandstone in RR.... pretty pathetic that they got called out and are still trying to defend it.

Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65
khalifornia wrote:Marc That CiloGear post was in response to this: instagram.com/p/BPRIKZ3jVCb...;hl=en Courtney Sanders and Daniel Woods trying to justify why they climb west sandstone in RR.... pretty pathetic that they got called out and are still trying to defend it.
OMFG.
Michael Dom · · Seattle · Joined Dec 2015 · Points: 1,454

Keyhole Canyon:

I only ended up doing about 5 routes there so there could be hidden gems but everything felt forced. The climbs went, but they weren't much fun. The rock quality was pretty poor and the climbs are rather heads up for something that didn't seem really worth the risk. But the annoying part is that you have to do these walk offs for anything on the 80ft wall and below. From what I understand it has to do with protecting access due to all of the rock art. If you are going to go to keyhole I would recommend bringing two ropes and leaving a fixed rap line on the anchors of the Demonstrator. You will end up skipping the whole gulley scramble descent and if you have a 60meter you can get down to the ground. When I tried to rap off of Demonstrator and pull the rope it ended up getting stuck due to the position of the anchors ( not a good spot for anchors) so you may want to hike down when you are done for the day.

The approach is pretty mellow though.

Momoface · · Arvada, CO · Joined Apr 2008 · Points: 60
khalifornia wrote:Marc That CiloGear post was in response to this: instagram.com/p/BPRIKZ3jVCb...;hl=en Courtney Sanders and Daniel Woods trying to justify why they climb west sandstone in RR.... pretty pathetic that they got called out and are still trying to defend it.
All of the comments now deleted and closed...took the toys and left the sandbox. I'm sure the good ones got screen *shotted ;)

*it's a word, right?
BigB · · Red Rock, NV · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 340

DWoods responses are bs

ShireSmitty · · Boulda · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 70

I just lost all respect for that kid

Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65
Momoface wrote: All of the comments now deleted and closed...took the toys and left the sandbox.
The only thing lamer and more pathetic than attempting to justify the unjustifiable is not being an adult and owning what you wrote....and not being mature enough to admit when you were wrong.

I respect their climbing ability, but my respect for them as responsible adults has plummeted.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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