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Bivy options for Franco-Argentinian route on Fitz Roy

Original Post
Dmitry Freitor · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 0

Question for those who've been on this climb: is it possible to bivy at La Silla or at La Brecha de los Italianos?

I understand that the "regular" way is to start from a bivy at Paso Superiore. However, that means a long approach to the actual route before it is climbed, and almost guarantees a bivy on the climb itself (at least for my partner and me). It seems like a more logical option would be to start closer to the wall, from a bivy at the Silla or the Brecha, do the climb and come back to the bivy on the same day.


Cor · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 1,455

Initial thoughts are:
Franco is the easiest route on Chalten (FitzRoy) so you should be able to find bivys.
You could bivy at LaSilla, but it will be colder and windy compared to lower...
Probably not real comfortable, but conditions would depend on that... especially if you approach in the bad weather to be in position for the good weather (window).
I would not bivy at LaBrecha unless you are above it, and not below it. It's very dirty and loose. Shit comes down from there either naturally or by people descending and pulling ropes. (We had a close call with a basketball sized rock when pulling ropes..)
That said, I have not climbed the Franco, I climbed MatePorro back in '11. We started to descend the Franco, in a white out only to get off route going down.. But that's another story... :)

Hope this info helps some.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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