Shortening slings another way

Original Post
Jim Titt · · Germany · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 490
mark felber · · Wheat Ridge, CO · Joined Jul 2005 · Points: 28

Very nice. I don't like the way overhand knots weaken the sling, fuzz the sling up when I untie them, and are hard to untie after I weight them.

Mountain Mark · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 0

Learn something new everyday.

Thanks for sharing

Marty C · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2008 · Points: 70

I have been using this technique for awhile now; nice to see some real test data on strength.

As to an "official name" - I have seen two reference sources to this or a similar knotting scheme:

Topher Donahue, in his two books, calls it an "adjustable hitch"

Rocorescue has a video showing what they call "webbing shortening technique"

Rocorescue shows doing this with a double strand basket hitch, but it can easily be done with just a single strand loop of webbing.

Obviously, this technique can be used to adjust the length of anchor arms at a trad belay or when using very long tied slings when setting up top rope anchors.

drewdogg2112 · · halifax, MA · Joined Aug 2015 · Points: 15

nice. I like this

Lee Durbetaki · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2016 · Points: 5

I'd be curious to see how it affects peak load on the anchor when tied in nylon.

Derek DeBruin · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 585

Correct me if I'm not seeing this correctly, Jim, but I'm pretty sure I've seen/used this one before. Isn't it a standard slip knot with an abnormal loading configuration?

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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