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Best gear for southeast

Original Post
Ryan · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 5

I know this topic has been beat to death, but I can never find what I'm looking for.

I climb pretty much exclusively in the southeast. What nuts/cams work best or are better suited to the granite and sandstone around here? (Yonah, T wall, sand rock to name a few).

I've used some friends gear but they all use exclusively bd gear. Just wondering if I was missing out on something before I went and bought my own rack.

Brian L. · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2016 · Points: 90

Pretty much anything.

Go fondle some different brands in the store and come to your own conclusions.

BD is popular for a reason. I also like Mastercam's in the finger and smaller sizes. I hate small u-stem cam's, because I have trouble operating them when the trigger is deep in a crack.

Parker Wrozek · · Denver, CO · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 83

In North Carolina I was loving the DMM Offset Nuts. I actually just love them everywhere I climb though.

kdionise · · Arizona · Joined Mar 2014 · Points: 15


Micah McCrotty · · Knoxville · Joined Sep 2016 · Points: 576

About anything will work. I've seen about every cam I can think of at T wall, and I carry a mixed bag too. Lots of love in the Southeast for tricams, I am growing more fond of DMM offset nuts, and Dragon Cams, but most my rack is BD/metolius/old aliens.

John Wilder · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Feb 2004 · Points: 1,530
Brian L. wrote:Pretty much anything. Go fondle some different brands in the store and come to your own conclusions.

You can't go wrong with gear you like.
eli poss · · Durango, Co · Joined May 2014 · Points: 456

I have yet to lead a pitch at T-wall without placing both a tricam and the orange metolius cam. I've heard the eyebrows in NC take a lot of finger sized and smaller cams and of course tricam. make sure you have tri-cams black through blue (.25-2). Start with red and pink, then get black, then brown and finally blue. The DMM alloy offsets are amazing on cumberland plateau sandstone as well as T-wall

Jcastleberry · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 60

Forget the tricams!

DanielHart · · Carpinteria ca · Joined Dec 2016 · Points: 5

Set of nuts doubles on metolius and black diamond everything will get you happily up almost anything.

Chet Butterworth · · Chattanooga · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 405
John Wilder wrote: You can't go wrong with gear you like.
I can count on one hand the number of pitches I've done where I haven't placed a Yellow Alien. Sometimes I'll be on a blank section of rock and I'll close my eyes and pray to my alien overlords and lo, a perfect placement will appear.
Jack Servedio · · Raleigh,NC · Joined Feb 2016 · Points: 35

Moved here not too long ago, but I ended up picking up doubles on my finger sized cams and currently carry the older style master cams and totem basics along with C4s.

Purple-Orange Mastercams, Green-Red Basics, Purple-Yellow C4 with larger C4s or doubles of the C4s if needed.

The orange mastercam is what I seem to place more than anything, so as you can see, I have a lot of options in that size range.

I also carry a single set of nuts with the larger peenuts, alloy offsets, and maybe some regular mid-size wallnuts if it looks like I can place a bunch of nuts. I carry a black and pink tricam with my bigger nuts, but don't place them too often since I am not as creative with them as I am with nuts.

Tons of people down here swear by the tricams and carry a lot of them, so maybe I will carry more and actually get better at placing them.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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