Does anyone know the history behind this route in Indian Cove, old1/4" studs on this route at the start? Were they slung with wires on the first ascent as protection? Have the upper bolts been replaced since the FA. It as great looking route , I'd gladly apply for a permit to upgrade it if I knew the history. Are the original climbers still around? . FFA: Vaino Kodas, Herb Laegar & Mike Jaffe, 11/80
Herb Laeger is around. He posts occasionally on this site. He's selling a guide to the Kernvillle area climbs so can probably find him thru that source.
Vaino and I did that route many years ago. We did not use any bolts for aid and all drilling was one on the lead. That being said I can't remember much about the route but I don't think there were any bolts on it when we started. There is a good chance that we used 1/4 or 5/16 inch bolts when we did it. Herb Laeger PS You have my permission to replace and old or questionable bolts.
Thanks Herb. Some one has placed 4 or more 1/4" studs at the start of the route , I figured you guys just ran it out on that slab. Do those old studs have some historical importance or were they added by some one else? Also some ugly graffiti scratched at the base and a foot long arrow scratched into the rock mid way. Indian Cove is seeing more of this crap. Let me know your thoughts and I'll talk to Parks and see if they have ideas for cleaning up the graffiti.
Jaffe is still around... last seen at the 2006 StoneMaster reunion.
Would be cool to know what Vaino is doing now.
And Rolf.... Paint remover works on granite, something to do on a rainy day. And you have my permission to change out any old suspect bolts on any climb I have my name attached to... as long as its hole for hole. A bunch of those have been replaced already.... about 15 years ago a certain woman, took up a keen hatred of my partner Kris.... and chopped every bolt he placed on any and all climbs with his name associated with.... we went back and replaced a whole mess pounded over 1/4 with 3/8 stainless... but she didn't get them all.